Rossi 38 Special/357 Magnum

[bcraig]

Here are a couple of pics of the Rossi 92 44 Magnum Little Brother.

Rossi 92 38/Special/357 Magnum





Rusty ,our little Female tortoiseshell Kitty seems to approve !
And Snowball ,our not so little Male Kitty seems to have the art of relaxation down to a tee !
He loves to lay on his back and snooze,much like me

I figured if I couldn't find Ammunition for one I could find it for the other.

[Ray]

When you first described the .44 before posting the first fotos I had doubts but those two are okay by my mister mcgoo vision and not at all gaudy.....I hope they serve you well !

[bcraig]

When you first described the .44 before posting the first fotos I had doubts but those two are okay by my mister mcgoo vision and not at all gaudy.....I hope they serve you well !

Thanks

I not only like the way that they look
But more importantly I am reminded that 1776 is remembered as a day that Celebrates The Declaration Of Independence from a Tyrannical Government.
And why the Second Amendment is so Important.

[piller]

Looks OK to me.

[COSteve]

I've got two Rossis, a 24" rifle and a 20" carbine in .357 and they are hands down my favorites. With a tang rear sight and target aperture and a globe front sight on my 24" rifle, popping bowling pins at 200 yds is a snap with both 125grn and 158grn handloads.

Both bought new in 2009 and slicked up with Steve's DvD. Both have thousands of rounds through them and they're still solid as a rock with actions smooth as silk.

[oldebear1950]

I bought the dvd from steves gun shop in texas, and am not sure I want to tackle this right now. I know I need to dive into it and take it apart and do the work. It is brand new, and took it out to just see how it would fire.
all I did was take the safety off and replace with a pin. As far as doing the rear sight, replacement with a peep sight, does yours attach to the bolt, or replace the factory sight? All I know is that 16 inch barrel, is a hoot to carry.
about the best I know. Makes me think I want both a 45 colt with 16 inch barrel, and either a 41 mag or 44 mag with the 16 inch barrels. And I will replace that stupid safety with a pin. We grew up shooting Marlins and Winchester lever guns, with no safety, and had no problem. Now if I could just talk Henry into putting the safety notch in their hammers, and taking some of the weight off would be perfect.

[oldebear1950]

I bought the dvd from steves gun shop in texas, and am not sure I want to tackle this right now. I know I need to dive into it and take it apart and do the work. It is brand new, and took it out to just see how it would fire.
all I did was take the safety off and replace with a pin. As far as doing the rear sight, replacement with a peep sight, does yours attach to the bolt, or replace the factory sight? All I know is that 16 inch barrel, is a hoot to carry.
about the best I know. Makes me think I want both a 45 colt with 16 inch barrel, and either a 41 mag or 44 mag with the 16 inch barrels. And I will replace that stupid safety with a pin. We grew up shooting Marlins and Winchester lever guns, with no safety, and had no problem. Now if I could just talk Henry into putting the safety notch in their hammers, and taking some of the weight off would be perfect.

[oldebear1950]

why did this print twice, please someone help me

[COSteve]

Steve has a plug to fill in the hole left by removing the safety as well as the peep sight. I have the bolt peep sight on my 20" carbine (started out with the plug) and the plug on my 24" rifle as my rifle has a tang mounted rear sight. I replaced the rear sight on my rifle to one that folds down so if I elect to not use the tang sight I have the standard rear available.

Both the tang and bolt mounted rear sights increase the sight radius (distance between the front and rear sights) to increase aiming precision and the small, target apertures I use also helps increase one's Depth of Field so the front sight and target are clear. The bolt peep sight increases the 20" carbine's radius from 16" to 20" and the 24" rifle's from 22" to 30".

Slicking up the action and lowering the ejection spring weight will give you an excellent action. I strongly suggest that you buy Steve's DvD as it gives complete, detailed instructions with video showing you both what to do and how to do it. His kit consists of the DvD, a metal follower to replace the plastic one, and the ejector spring. The safety plug or bolt mounted peep sight are separate.

[bcraig]

Steve has a plug to fill in the hole left by removing the safety as well as the peep sight. I have the bolt peep sight on my 20" carbine (started out with the plug) and the plug on my 24" rifle as my rifle has a tang mounted rear sight. I replaced the rear sight on my rifle to one that folds down so if I elect to not use the tang sight I have the standard rear available.

Both the tang and bolt mounted rear sights increase the sight radius (distance between the front and rear sights) to increase aiming precision and the small, target apertures I use also helps increase one's Depth of Field so the front sight and target are clear. The bolt peep sight increases the 20" carbine's radius from 16" to 20" and the 24" rifle's from 22" to 30".

Slicking up the action and lowering the ejection spring weight will give you an excellent action. I strongly suggest that you buy Steve's DvD as it gives complete, detailed instructions with video showing you both what to do and how to do it. His kit consists of the DvD, a metal follower to replace the plastic one, and the ejector spring. The safety plug or bolt mounted peep sight are separate.

Thanks

[AJMD429]

why did this print twice, please someone help me

…must be cuz it was IMPORTANT…!

I get that sometimes. If I spot it before the next post appears, I can delete it but once there’s something posted afterwards, all I can do is just go back and edit it to something else.

[oldebear1950]

I did buy the video, and maybe I am a klutz, but I guess I also need the instructions on how to disassemble the rifle/carbine. I will also check out one of the books on disassembly I have as I thing it has the 92. As far as the work goes will have to view the dvd again to see if I know what he is talking about.
I think I also need to buy the lifter to get rid of the plastic one.

[oldebear1950]

I have an older gun digest of center fire rifles, by J. B. WOOD, and it covers the Winchester model 1892. As far as I know, other than the funky sight, and the plastic follower of course, the disassembly/assembly would be the same.

[COSteve]

The video I got from Steve in 2009 shows how to dissemble and reassemble your Rossi including all the tricks needed to do the job simply. Did you look at the DvD from beginning to end first? I find watching the whole thing made it easier to understand where he was leading you as you watched it a second time.

[oldebear1950]

I did watch it again, and it does have instructions to disassemble and reassemble the gun for cleaning and repair. but I am old school, and sometimes the books do help.

[COSteve]

At almost 76, I could be called 'old school' as well, however, I find Steve's DvD the best at explaining the process. That said, I also have some word documents with pictures showing and telling you how to dissemble and reassemble the Rossi that I found many years ago on the web. Send me an email and I'll give you a copy of all I have.

[JimT]

Leverguns Online Field-Strip ....

https://leverguns.com/articles/taylor/field_strip.htm

Rossi article

https://leverguns.com/articles/taylor/rossi.htm

[COSteve]

Thanks JimT, that's the article I downloaded. I combined both links into a single word document to keep on my computer. If you 'control click' a picture it enlarges in a separate window for much easier viewing.

[JimT]

That's a great idea. Much handier than having to go online and look it up when you are working on it.

[COSteve]

Thanks again for your help.

[oldebear1950]

hey costeve, where did you get the tang sight? that sounds like something I might like. I also thought of putting a peep sight in place of the factory sight. But the tang sounds more doable. I would like one that also folds down.

[AJMD429]

hey costeve, where did you get the tang sight? that sounds like something I might like. I also thought of putting a peep sight in place of the factory sight. But the tang sounds more doable. I would like one that also folds down.

Most are using the Marble's I believe.

They are pricey but high quality. The Lymans are nice but don't have windage adjustment that I know of.

Taurus had a 'generic' version that I bought several of for a really good price, and I've been satisfied with them.

One 'issue' is that the Rossi rifles I believe are all metric for that tang screw, so if an extra-long one comes with the sight, it may not fit. I found a stainless screw for my stainless ones at Ace Hardware, but for the blued guns, I just bought a black hexhead bolt in metric from Ace Hardware for mounting mine, and it is fine. I could have gotten a pan or flat head one but the hex head was easy to tighten without marring and I don't care if it is 'authentic' on a gun that is a 'shooter' instead of a collectible.

Pics of the sight setup -



http://www.levergunscommunity.org/viewt ... 03#p494518

[oldebear1950]

is it possible to still obtain the taurus sight?

[COSteve]

Doc is spot on.

I have 1st - Marbles tang rear sight with a .042" target aperture (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1005873468),

2nd - Marbles fold down rear sight (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1005904476?pid=986064)

3rd - Lyman Globe Front Sight (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1005865117?pid=504955)

4th - Lee Shaver Globe Inserts (https://www.brownells.com/gun-parts/rif ... -lyman-17a/) because they're much better than lyman's.

Don't forget to get Rossi specific screws for the tang sight.

[Griff]

I like the Lyman rear tang sight better'n the Marbles, but only because it seems more robust. Windage adjustable with a shim of copper under one side or the other to set it up. I don't have them on my Rossi '92s, carbine bbl lengths, etc. But do have them on a couple of Winchester 94 rifles. Both had to be drilled & tapped for the front screw. No biggie, set up in a drill vise and drilled with the drill press. Then hand tapped, paying attention to get the tap to go it straight.

[bcraig]

Leverguns Online Field-Strip ....

https://leverguns.com/articles/taylor/field_strip.htm

Rossi article

https://leverguns.com/articles/taylor/rossi.htm
[/quo
I tried lookin mine over and
took the Ejector out and had no problem doing so and took the spring out and had no problems .

I tried putting it all back together EXCEPT the paper clip I used was evedintly not big enough as the clip pulled inside the spring.
I have been fiddling around with this gun since 4 pm yesterday !
And finally got a sewing needle within 4 coils of the end
watching every youtube vid I can find .

My issue is that My lower tang will not move freely and I have to tap on the end of the lower tang to try and get it forward enough to
Capture the hole of the Lower tang but when I try to do so it wont go far foward enough to do so ,and locks up with the trigger hitting
inside the trigger guard right below the rear of the locking lugs and then I will move the lever down to unlock the action and when I do this the lugs drop down and it puches the lower tang rearward and shows the trigger pin about a 1/4 inch behind the rear of the reciever.

Now I know this has got to be something simple that I am overlookin but dang if I know what it is !

I tried looking at your Rossi
article but when It gets to reasembly it only shows 4 or 5 lines.

EVERYONES youtube video shows it as a walk in the park.

And it was till I got to the final part of Assembly.

Could shure use some help here.

Thanks

[JimT]

It could be that you need to hold the trigger back (in the "fired" position) when you slide the tang in. Without having it in my hands it is hard to tell for sure.

Putting the rifle back together, make sure you do it in the reverse of taking it apart. Install the lower tang before you install the lever. Don't put the locking bolts in before the lever is installed. Etc. You probably are doing that but I wanted to make sure.

[bcraig]

It could be that you need to hold the trigger back (in the "fired" position) when you slide the tang in. Without having it in my hands it is hard to tell for sure.

Putting the rifle back together, make sure you do it in the reverse of taking it apart. Install the lower tang before you install the lever. Don't put the locking bolts in before the lever is installed. Etc. You probably are doing that but I wanted to make sure.

This is as close I can come to getting the rifle in your Hands Jim,
I have been following this guys instructions and 2 more Guys essentially the same thing.
Here is one more guy who shows his method of reassembling the rossi 92
https://youtu.be/XC-fyYEEuRs
https://youtu.be/-Iu9isvYSAc

If you dont mind I would appreciate it if you would watch this and tell me what if anything He is doing wrong.
The order of things etc.

Thanks
Craig

[JimT]

He got it back together. Yours should go like that also.

The only thing differently that I do is I usually put the lever and locking lugs in after I have the tang installed.
You might try that.

Sometimes it helps to have another set of hands to help hold things. Anyone you can get to help?

[bcraig]

He got it back together. Yours should go like that also.

The only thing differently that I do is I usually put the lever and locking lugs in after I have the tang installed.
You might try that.

Sometimes it helps to have another set of hands to help hold things. Anyone you can get to help?

Thank you Jim,I really appreciate you looking at the videos for me

I think that my main issue was the fact that the paper clip that I use pulled up inside the hammer spring and the hammer strut was at an odd angle,I will use a Big a sewing needle or as small a nail as I can find to keep the spring captured so I do not have
This type of issue again.
I ended up having to grap ahold of the hammer strut where it first meets the spring to pull it far enough that the spring capture on the lower tang
would allow the end ot the strut to go through the hole.

While I was in there I cut one coil off the ejector spring and took an inch and a half off the Magazine spring both in an attempt to lessen the difficulty loading it.
I was not quite sure what you meant in your article abpout de-tensioning the loading Gate spring,whether you meant removing the Loading gate and bending it or just Depressing the Loading gate repeatedly to give it a set?

Also the gun will feed some 357 Magnum semi wadcutters I loaded back in my teens just a tad stiffly.

The Remington 158 grain Hollowpoints after being run through the action several times are bunged up on one side .
Maybe need a tad of polishing where the bullet goes into the Chamber?

Again thanks for your help

Craig

Oh ,as far as help around here goes my Wife is over 1,000 miles from here visiting with her Momma and will be for another week or so ,so it is just me and our 4 Kitties,they give me a lot of moral support although I am sure that they have never heard some of the words that I used while working on this Carbine !

[JimT]

With the 158 gr. JHP I would not polish the chamber to correct that. Feeding is controlled by the cartridge guides and most likely some adjustment needs to be made there. But THAT is a very touchy point to mess with if you don't have the tools and the experience or someone who can walk you through it. I have fiddled with them but don't know a lot about fixing those kinds of issues.

1.JPG

2.JPG

In the Model 1892 Winchester the cartridges come from the magazine to the barrel at a fairly steep angle. To make feeding smooth, the rear of the cartridge must be lifted in line with the chamber. This is done by means of a Left and Right Cartridge Guide. As the cartridge is pushed up the lifter to the chamber, the rim of the cartridge enters the Guides. As the cartridge is pushed forward the Guides lift the rear of the cartridge, aligning it with the chamber.

If there is excessive clearance, the lifting of the rear of the cartridge takes place later in the chambering stroke. The tighter the clearance the earlier the lifting takes place during the chambering stroke. Balky chambering .. where the lever must be jiggled back and forth a little to get the cartridge to chamber .. is often caused by excessive clearance at the rim end of the cartridge WHEN IT IS LAYING IN THE LIFTER.

Adjusting these properly requires some gunsmithing skill.

..............
Lightening the tension of the loading gate spring ... I did it with the loading gate out of the gun. I bent the spring a little straighter so it did not have as much tension when installed. It was a "bend slightly and try" that took a few "tries" until I had it where I liked it. It is easy to go too far.

[Tycer]

[
I was not quite sure what you meant in your article abpout de-tensioning the loading Gate spring,whether you meant removing the Loading gate and bending it or just Depressing the Loading gate repeatedly to give it a set?

Also the gun will feed some 357 Magnum semi wadcutters I loaded back in my teens just a tad stiffly.

Remove the gate and thin the spring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvO-jAVdy6s

[Grizz]

way back on a different forum there was a video posted by a Swedish hunter that showed him unloading the magazine by backing the cartridges out the way they went in. this involves making the loading gate amenable to pushing past the cartridge with finger pressure, which allows the cartridge to back out. his gun was so well tuned that he could empty the magazine in seconds. no cycling thru the action. which makes me wonder if the shorter mag spring will push the rounds out . . . it's another tuning thing. my 94AE 357 has a stiff gate that needs to be tuned to back out ammo

I unload my stainless guide gun this way . . .

[oldebear1950]

as for the loading gate, HOW DO YOU GET THE LOADING GATE TO GO PAST THE RIM OF THE CARTRIDGE IN THE MAG TUBE? can the spring or gate be bent so that it does that?

[oldebear1950]

as for the loading gate, HOW DO YOU GET THE LOADING GATE TO GO PAST THE RIM OF THE CARTRIDGE IN THE MAG TUBE? can the spring or gate be bent so that it does that?

[bcraig]

[
I was not quite sure what you meant in your article abpout de-tensioning the loading Gate spring,whether you meant removing the Loading gate and bending it or just Depressing the Loading gate repeatedly to give it a set?

Also the gun will feed some 357 Magnum semi wadcutters I loaded back in my teens just a tad stiffly.

Remove the gate and thin the spring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvO-jAVdy6s

Thanks for the link

[bcraig]

way back on a different forum there was a video posted by a Swedish hunter that showed him unloading the magazine by backing the cartridges out the way they went in. this involves making the loading gate amenable to pushing past the cartridge with finger pressure, which allows the cartridge to back out. his gun was so well tuned that he could empty the magazine in seconds. no cycling thru the action. which makes me wonder if the shorter mag spring will push the rounds out . . . it's another tuning thing. my 94AE 357 has a stiff gate that needs to be tuned to back out ammo

I unload my stainless guide gun this way . . .

Very interesting
Thanks

[bcraig]

With the 158 gr. JHP I would not polish the chamber to correct that. Feeding is controlled by the cartridge guides and most likely some adjustment needs to be made there. But THAT is a very touchy point to mess with if you don't have the tools and the experience or someone who can walk you through it. I have fiddled with them but don't know a lot about fixing those kinds of issues.

1.JPG

2.JPG

In the Model 1892 Winchester the cartridges come from the magazine to the barrel at a fairly steep angle. To make feeding smooth, the rear of the cartridge must be lifted in line with the chamber. This is done by means of a Left and Right Cartridge Guide. As the cartridge is pushed up the lifter to the chamber, the rim of the cartridge enters the Guides. As the cartridge is pushed forward the Guides lift the rear of the cartridge, aligning it with the chamber.

If there is excessive clearance, the lifting of the rear of the cartridge takes place later in the chambering stroke. The tighter the clearance the earlier the lifting takes place during the chambering stroke. Balky chambering .. where the lever must be jiggled back and forth a little to get the cartridge to chamber .. is often caused by excessive clearance at the rim end of the cartridge WHEN IT IS LAYING IN THE LIFTER.

Adjusting these properly requires some gunsmithing skill.

..............
Lightening the tension of the loading gate spring ... I did it with the loading gate out of the gun. I bent the spring a little straighter so it did not have as much tension when installed. It was a "bend slightly and try" that took a few "tries" until I had it where I liked it. It is easy to go too far.

Thanks for the information and the images,
I am going to do some searching online and see if I can find an animation on How the Rossi 92 Works,is the Rossi 92 similair enough to The Winchester 92 that information for one is information for the other ?

Thanks

[Tycer]

[

Thanks

Wait. You need to buy Steve’s CD and ejector spring. Www.stevesgunz.com

[JimT]

I am going to do some searching online and see if I can find an animation on How the Rossi 92 Works,is the Rossi 92 similair enough to The Winchester 92 that information for one is information for the other ?
Thanks

Yes sir. It's a good copy. Some Winchester 92 parts fit the Rossi's.

[bcraig]

I am going to do some searching online and see if I can find an animation on How the Rossi 92 Works,is the Rossi 92 similair enough to The Winchester 92 that information for one is information for the other ?
Thanks

Yes sir. It's a good copy. Some Winchester 92 parts fit the Rossi's.

Thank you much

[bcraig]

[

Thanks

Wait. You need to buy Steve’s CD and ejector spring. Www.stevesgunz.com

Thanks

[bcraig]

I am going to do some searching online and see if I can find an animation on How the Rossi 92 Works,is the Rossi 92 similair enough to The Winchester 92 that information for one is information for the other ?
Thanks

Yes sir. It's a good copy. Some Winchester 92 parts fit the Rossi's.

I found this on youtube,I will keep looking for more

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=of2uCOQWYLk