forming 25-35 cases

[argie1891]

how hard is it to form 25-35 cases from 30-30? are form dies needed? thanks in advance argie1891 aka joe g.

[3leggedturtle]

Right now there a topic in the Cast Boolits firumn on making 25 Krag AI from 30/40 Krag. Also do a search on your reforming 25/35 cuz a few guys have also done it there too. I forgetbwho has done it here, hopefully they'll be on soon. Todd/3leg

[6pt-sika]

Never did any 25-35 I was able to scrounge up about 300 once fired pieces when I had the 25-36 Marlin . I did however buy 200 pieces of 219 Zipper that had started life as 30-30 . Was a guy on EBay that was selling the 219 reformed from 30-30 and I think he was doing 25-35 as well .

[wm]

Graf's has Hornady cases in stock and with the right head stamp …… https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/70435, or here https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ ... s-50-count,

On the other hand if you are knee deep in 30 WCF cases & need 25-35 cases I can understand the impulse to simply reform if it can be done easily them rather then spend the $.


I'm contemplating doing likewise with with some mil surp 308 NATO to make 300 Savage cases. Hell I'm the knuckle head working on converting 7.5X55 Swiss from Berdan to Boxer priming so I certainly live in a glass house when it comes to handloading.


Wm.


P.S. CTD has some Winchester cases as well for $28/50 cases. https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product ... 2632745.do

[marlinman93]

Why bother forming them when they are readily available still?

[Sixgun]

Unless the 25-35 chamber is fat, your not going to use 30-30 brass by FLS in a 25-35 die....at least I've never been able to do it with the half dozens 25-35's I've played with over the years. You have several choices...buy 25-35 brass, (the easiest), take a few thousandths off the base of 30-30 brass., (about 1/4 to 3/8" from the rim) or do what I do ....run them through a .219 Zipper forming die. ----6

[argie1891]

yes in looking and measuring the 25-35 forming would probably be a problem. when I checked they were out of stock on factory cases will check again and other retailers. thanks for all replys

[AmBraCol]

Years ago 25-35 was all but a dead cartridge. Brass was non-existent and factory ammo expensive. Rich Hoch loaned me his 7mm neck size only die and I did up a couple of boxes from 30-30 by doing it in two stages, first neck size in the 7mm then in the 25-35 die, trim to length and load. I didn't know about annealing the case necks back then but they worked fine - for one loading. Ammo that was left loaded over 20 years developed splits in the neck/shoulder area. Also, the oil dents did NOT fireform out as the brass was super hard. I'd do it again - if my brother hadn't cornered the local market on 25-35 brass and Hornady 117 gr RNSP bullets, obviating the need to do so.

To sum up, if you do it in two stages and anneal the neck/shoulder then it's definitely doable.

Considering the time and effort and the mis-stamped headstamps - this is a better option unless you've got oodles of brass and time on your hands.

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pr ... ctId/70435

[marlinman93]

I have a huge amount of .25-35 brass, but only because I use it to make my .25-36 Marlin ammo. Most has been fire formed and reloaded as .25-36M, but some is just being stored for future use in my 1893 Marlin. It ends up minutely short, but never been a problem. I could make them from .32-40 or .38-55 and be full length. But it's not worth the effort for the tiny difference in neck length.

[argie1891]

I really should not need many, with a single shot and cast bullets brass lasts almost forever. I have 50 norma cases for the 7.65 argentine that I have loaded over 50 times without a hitch.

[6pt-sika]

I have a huge amount of .25-35 brass, but only because I use it to make my .25-36 Marlin ammo. Most has been fire formed and reloaded as .25-36M, but some is just being stored for future use in my 1893 Marlin. It ends up minutely short, but never been a problem. I could make them from .32-40 or .38-55 and be full length. But it's not worth the effort for the tiny difference in neck length.

The 25-36 I had shot more then we’ll enough using cast or jacketed loaded in 25-35 cases . And to be honest I saw no great difference between the loads in the cases when they were still for a 25-35 chamber and when they’d been fire formed to the 25-36 chamber accuracy wise that is

[marlinman93]

Often fire forming cases I've found that cases loaded with fixed bullets and loads replicating what I was using to shoot after fire forming, shot equally well during fire forming, and after forming. My 9.3x74R cases I expand and fire form to .40-90 Ballard have a wasp like waist just below the bullet, but shoot as accurate during forming as they do formed and reloaded.
When I started making these cases I thought I might as well have some fun and shoot them with my Lyman 400 grain Snover and my RCBS CSA 350 gr. bullets. I was shooting a fair amount before I looked through the spotting scope, and when I did I was pleasantly surprised to see some very tight groups. So I took more time than previously to try and see how tightly they'd group. They were grouping under 2" at 100 yds. with the factory tang sight and a Beeches Combination front sight on my Pacific Ballard. After reloading and hoping for even tighter groups, I found the group size was pretty much identical to cases being formed before.

[GunnyMack]

I never really noticed an accuracy issue when I was fire forming 257Roberts Ackley Improved. Velocities were lower for sure!

[argie1891]

I formed some 32-40 and 38-55 from 30-30 cases and they seem to shoot as well as factory cases. it might be bad shooter but I couldn't tell the difference. I did find that making 218 bee and 25-20 from 32-20 I needed form dies to prevent ruined cases. others say it isnt needed but I havent been that lucky. the form dies really were not that expensive.