The incorrigible…...
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The incorrigible…...
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Last edited by Ray on Fri Apr 08, 2022 4:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Sixgun
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Re: The incorrigible…...
A agree...use smokeless....I've used around 10 grains of Unique with a patch in a 54 Thompson......remember, when Bill Ruger built his first Ruger Old Army, he loaded up a hefty charge of Bullseye with the 45 round ball and shot that....He figured if that did not blow it up, nothing would. Why filth it all up with black-----6
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Re: The incorrigible…...
Sixgun, I'm still wondering why that according to the instruction manual, I can use smokeless in my Savage ML-10 muzzleloader, yet everyone says not to do it in ANY muzzleloader. Somehow I don't think the inherent design of a muzzleloader versus a breechloader is the issue. I think the strength of the action and the steel is what matters. Of course some muzzleloaders are soft and different steel, even if modern manufacture, but I ALSO realize that pressure curves for SOME smokeless powders CAN duplicate black powder ones, and smokeless certainly seems less hygroscopic and less prone to rusting things if not meticulously cleaned right away.
I do like the 'feel' and the smoke of black powder sometimes, but have seen too many experts fire many rounds from muzzleloaders using 5744 and SR4759 to think that all smokeless powders are forbidden.
Anyway, if you are talking about just using it for blowing out 'crud' before your actual (black powder) load, I'd be hard pressed to find any logical reason that could be a bad thing.
I do like the 'feel' and the smoke of black powder sometimes, but have seen too many experts fire many rounds from muzzleloaders using 5744 and SR4759 to think that all smokeless powders are forbidden.
Anyway, if you are talking about just using it for blowing out 'crud' before your actual (black powder) load, I'd be hard pressed to find any logical reason that could be a bad thing.
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Re: The incorrigible…...
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Last edited by Ray on Fri Apr 08, 2022 4:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The incorrigible…...
Using oil is the problem.
Hot water to clean and make a thick grease from animal fat and some olive oil. Coat the bore and outside whilst hot. Store muzzle down.
Popping a cap prior to loading can block a nipple. Insert a rod and cleaning patch to create some back pressure or just arrogant idiot the nipple after popping a cap.
Should be fine then.
N.
Hot water to clean and make a thick grease from animal fat and some olive oil. Coat the bore and outside whilst hot. Store muzzle down.
Popping a cap prior to loading can block a nipple. Insert a rod and cleaning patch to create some back pressure or just arrogant idiot the nipple after popping a cap.
Should be fine then.
N.
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Because I wish I could!
Re: The incorrigible…...
Deleted.
Last edited by Ray on Fri Apr 08, 2022 4:34 am, edited 2 times in total.
m.A.g.a. !
Re: The incorrigible…...
Deleted.
Last edited by Ray on Fri Apr 08, 2022 4:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
m.A.g.a. !
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Re: The incorrigible…...
I only shoot muzzle loader to hunt deer with so don't have to go through this very often but here is my regimen. I clean with 10:1 Ballistol mixture and oil with a patch wetted with straight Ballistol before storage. If I remember to do it, I like to wipe the bore with a damp patch, (Ballistol) after a month or so.
Before loading I pour a little acetone or methanol down the barrel, swab with clean patch and then use compressed air to dry. Then I snap a cap and pour the powder down. Works for me.
Before loading I pour a little acetone or methanol down the barrel, swab with clean patch and then use compressed air to dry. Then I snap a cap and pour the powder down. Works for me.
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Re: The incorrigible…...
I used to experience the same thing with my caplock rifles, but since I switched from Pyrodex to Holy Black (I use FFFg) about 25 years ago, the issue hasn't yet recurred.
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Re: The incorrigible…...
The reason why manufacturers tell you NOT to use smokeless in a muzzleloader is the same reason your not supposed to use smokeless powder in cartridge guns designed and manufactured during the black powder days.
Yes....they are right...it's very easy to make a small mistake that leads to a big problem.
I've shot tens of thousands of rounds from rifles and handguns made from the 1870's-smokeless era. You had better know what you are doing, take no chances, be extremely knowledgeable about powder pressure curves, bullet diameters, primers, outside temperatures or you could eat steel or harm the person next to you.
You have to be able to read between the lines and make that decision for yourself....knowledge is power.
This happened to me....not from an overload but continued shooting of "warm loads" over a period of close to thirty years in a black powder 1886 in 45-90. I still have the scars. Even back in '03 this was a 4K rifle. ---6
I just took this picture....constant reminder to be careful
Yes....they are right...it's very easy to make a small mistake that leads to a big problem.
I've shot tens of thousands of rounds from rifles and handguns made from the 1870's-smokeless era. You had better know what you are doing, take no chances, be extremely knowledgeable about powder pressure curves, bullet diameters, primers, outside temperatures or you could eat steel or harm the person next to you.
You have to be able to read between the lines and make that decision for yourself....knowledge is power.
This happened to me....not from an overload but continued shooting of "warm loads" over a period of close to thirty years in a black powder 1886 in 45-90. I still have the scars. Even back in '03 this was a 4K rifle. ---6
I just took this picture....constant reminder to be careful
Re: The incorrigible…...
I had that problem all the time with a .54 Renegade. Then a fella said that taking the warm rifle out into the cold cause it to sweat on the inside. I'd keep the rifle in the cold trunk the night before and load a cold gun. "Seemed" like it helped a bit.
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Re: The incorrigible…...
so sorry, I never proof read my reply.Ray wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:33 amyou'll have to translate that phrase from the queen's english to stiff-necked colonial rebel english so as I can comprehend it….Nath wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:00 am Using oil is the problem.
Hot water to clean and make a thick grease from animal fat and some olive oil. Coat the bore and outside whilst hot. Store muzzle down.
Popping a cap prior to loading can block a nipple. Insert a rod and cleaning patch to create some back pressure or just arrogant idiot the nipple after popping a cap.
Should be fine then.
N.
we will have to agree to disagree on the use of oil (i use 1/7 to 1/10 ratio ballistol to water depending on type/style of gun)….do you use any type of metal preservative in the flash channel and cone ?
The swear filter went nuts. I said p.r.i.c.k the nipple.
No I don't lube the flash channel, the hot water dissolves any salts, no serious corrosion should take place. It doesn't with my guns.
N.
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Re: The incorrigible…...
I would change the nipple, if still miss/hanging I'd try your smokeless technique.
Never use oil on a front stuffer!
Never use oil on a front stuffer!
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Re: The incorrigible…...
Bringing a cold rifle into a warm moist area will cause it to sweat and condense.
I clean all oils from inside the barrel and nipple flash channel using alcohol or other solvent. Allow the solvent to completely dry
before loading the gun. Load her up.
I swab the bore with a light coating of lube from muzzle down to the bullet. I also grease the threads of the nipple with wonder lube, being carefull mot to get any inside the flash channel. Don't bring the rifle into a warm moist area during the entire hunting season. My rifles fire every time when I do the above. Washington is well known for it's wet hunting seasons. Keep your powder dry !
I clean all oils from inside the barrel and nipple flash channel using alcohol or other solvent. Allow the solvent to completely dry
before loading the gun. Load her up.
I swab the bore with a light coating of lube from muzzle down to the bullet. I also grease the threads of the nipple with wonder lube, being carefull mot to get any inside the flash channel. Don't bring the rifle into a warm moist area during the entire hunting season. My rifles fire every time when I do the above. Washington is well known for it's wet hunting seasons. Keep your powder dry !
Re: The incorrigible…...
.
FWIW
IME, the loaded gun (w/o a cap, of course) can be safely moved from the outdoors/cold inside a warmer area, but the trick is to put it into a heavy/thick (insulated soft gun case before bringing it inside.
I always place a leather tab onto the in-capped nipple, though - to avoid any moisture ingress through the ignition channel.
(I do the same with my flinchlocks, temporarily plugging the ignition vent with a wooden toothpick)
I usually let the gun warm up to the indoor temperature while it's still inside the closed case, very gradually (usually overnite, at least) to avoid condensation inside the barrel.
.
FWIW
IME, the loaded gun (w/o a cap, of course) can be safely moved from the outdoors/cold inside a warmer area, but the trick is to put it into a heavy/thick (insulated soft gun case before bringing it inside.
I always place a leather tab onto the in-capped nipple, though - to avoid any moisture ingress through the ignition channel.
(I do the same with my flinchlocks, temporarily plugging the ignition vent with a wooden toothpick)
I usually let the gun warm up to the indoor temperature while it's still inside the closed case, very gradually (usually overnite, at least) to avoid condensation inside the barrel.
.