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The biggest problem shooting Vintage rifles is they all seem to shoot high. The only way to cure that is to put a taller front sight on the gun. I have several inserts, but finding the right height is impossible, so the next best thing is to make one.
Finding stock that is 1/16 inch thick for the SRC is the hardest part, but it is a valuable component to the fix. I had Ben Forkin mill a piece of steel to 1/16 inch and then I took the project home to finish it.
Getting the hole drilled in the perfect spot takes some alignment, but isn't too hard. Starting plenty high and having a file and lots of ammunition will help complete the project. Filing, then shooting and so on until the desired height is found takes awhile, the main thing is to not get carried away with the filing and end up shooting too high again...
Nice post. I have used brass flat stock to do the same thing. Then I color it with a black sharpie. It isn't as nice as your steel one but it works. With the brass I have filed the top corner at a 45 degree , leaving the brass showing like a sourdough sight. But i like the straight post better.
I've made several carbine blades. One gun had a dime cut down for a front sight. I ground down a sourdough dovetail sight into a blade for one carbine I did. It works well in the woods. Also had several bases made to convert newer ramp sighted guns to early type front sight.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
That goes double for pistols too! Finding the right thickness for the sight is difficult...Your eyes gotta like it! But I whittled me up a dandy for my 3rd Model 73 SRC out of a nickel plated padlock key!
I thinned the part that fits in the sight slot so it centered nicely using a pattern file with a safe edge ... Getting it drilled without ruining the hole for the retaining pin was slow going... I like the way yours came out
"IT IS MY OPINION, AND I AM CORRECT SO DON'T ARGUE, THE 99 SAVAGE IS THE FINEST RIFLE EVER MADE IN AMERICA."
WIL TERRY
I dabble in knife making so I often have scrap pieces of precision ground tool steel and have made sight blades from them.
The amount that the front sight needs to be changed in either direction can be easily calculated.
Shoot a group at a measured distance and divide that distance by the sight radius of the gun.
Example, 100 yd = 3600 inches. Let's say your sights are 22" apart. Divide 3600" by 22" = 163.6approx. 163.6sight radius's from the muzzle to the target.
Now let's say you are low by 6". Divide the 6.000 " by 163.6 =.0366"
Your front or rear sight has to move .0366" in the appropriate direction to zero.
When building a rifle with non adjustable (for elevation,such as a Kentucky rifle) I shoot for group and adjust windage and then take the target along with me. The front can then be shaped to the proper hight at the bench and when at the range next time it is perfectly zeroed.
Chuck 100 yd wrote:I dabble in knife making so I often have scrap pieces of precision ground tool steel and have made sight blades from them.
The amount that the front sight needs to be changed in either direction can be easily calculated.
Shoot a group at a measured distance and divide that distance by the sight radius of the gun.
Example, 100 yd = 3600 inches. Let's say your sights are 22" apart. Divide 3600" by 22" = 163.6approx. 163.6sight radius's from the muzzle to the target.
Now let's say you are low by 6". Divide the 6.000 " by 163.6 =.0366"
Your front or rear sight has to move .0366" in the appropriate direction to zero.
When building a rifle with non adjustable (for elevation,such as a Kentucky rifle) I shoot for group and adjust windage and then take the target along with me. The front can then be shaped to the proper hight at the bench and when at the range next time it is perfectly zeroed.
Yikes, that is more math than I had in 4 years of college. I just took it out and with a file, I kept filing the sight down until it was on for the distance I wanted. You would have to do that anyway, so I just skipped all the math...
I use the formula Chuck mentioned as it saves a lot of shooting. I bring a set of calipers to the range with me.
Fire a group, measure the error, check the height of the sight, then file it to the needed dimension.
This method works well and saves me time.
"Oh bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round.
Here's a pic of my heavy work levergun, that I made a highly visible front sight out of a silver dime. Browning SRC 45/70 with a Williams Foolproof. Need to give her some exercise one of these falls..
This is plagiarized from someone else, but I love it!
I was born a gun owner.
It wasn't a choice.
I didn't become one later in life.
I was born this way.
Les Staley wrote:Here's a pic of my heavy work levergun, that I made a highly visible front sight out of a silver dime. Browning SRC 45/70 with a Williams Foolproof. Need to give her some exercise one of these falls..
You have to admit these Brownings were made every bit as well as the original guns...
Shrapnel wrote:You have to admit these Brownings were made every bit as well as the original guns...
Better, IMO; even if they lack some of the tales...
All this scientific mumbo-jumbo, I just make the sight so that it's ¾" above the centerline of the bore. Then use the rear sight to adjust elevation. Works almost every time! At least for my m94 Winchesters!
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession! AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Using the rear barrel sight works for the most part, and is how most use the rear elevator on barrel sights, but you lose the range adjusting ability, as they were apparently designed to be used. With the rear barrel sight elevator at the lowest notch, it should be 50 yards, and each step an additional 50 yards, according to Madis. It makes sense. I've done a couple this way. There were different elevators for different cartridge classes. The rear sights had adjustments in the face of the sight, and the later sights the entire rear face was adjustable with the two little screws that attach the face to the base for fine zeroing to the notch. I believe there were different front sight heights available from Winchester to get rough sighted.
I'm in the pro Miroku appreciation camp. Very well built guns. I couldnt afford a comparable condition original 86 or 92 for a using gun. I do really like the originals, and have had several in the past, I just cant afford to own them at todays values.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
Shrapnel wrote:You have to admit these Brownings were made every bit as well as the original guns...
Better, IMO; even if they lack some of the tales...
All this scientific mumbo-jumbo, I just make the sight so that it's ¾" above the centerline of the bore. Then use the rear sight to adjust elevation. Works almost every time! At least for my m94 Winchesters!
Shrapnel wrote:You have to admit these Brownings were made every bit as well as the original guns...
Better, IMO; even if they lack some of the tales...
All this scientific mumbo-jumbo, I just make the sight so that it's ¾" above the centerline of the bore. Then use the rear sight to adjust elevation. Works almost every time! At least for my m94 Winchesters!
This won't work with a Carbine sight...
Right. The early carbine sights dont have a step elevator.
Question for Shrapnel, the early type carbine sights had two different type sighting notches, the small U notch, and the wide V type. With the wide V type, how do you use the notch with the front blade for a sight picture, with the tip of the front sight even with the top edge of the V, or use a small square of the front blade bedded down in the bottom of the V, as in "fine sight"?
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
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