Gunsmith Question: recut throat Marlin 336 in 44 mag.

[C. Cash]

So, my hoped for loads/bullets(Ranch Dog 265 Gr. and Keith 250's) do not even begin to chamber in the Marlin...not even close. I was really surpised about the Ranch Dog.....thought it might not cycle but expected it to chamber. They are .432 but that is the bore size of the Marlin and a couple of my SA's. So, looking for options to get the throat recut; throat or leade... I can never get those straight. Any recommendations? Should I seek out a specialist who works on levers like McPherson our own Nate Kiowa Jones?

[Terry Murbach]

THIS IS INTERESTING. I CALL IT THE THROAT OUT OF HABIT WITH SIXGUNS BUT ALSO THINK LEDE-LEAD-LEADE IS PROBABLY MORE CORRECT FOR A RIFLE OR CARBINE.
I AM AMAZED THAT NEITHER OF THOSE TWO BULLETS YOU MENTION WILL CHAMBER IN YOUR MARLIN 336 44MAG CARBINE. THE KEITH 429421 WILL GO THROUGH MY MARLIN 1894 LIKE PHITT THROUGH A GOOSE, FAST AS I CAN JACK THE LEVER AND PRESS TRIGGER. ON THE OTHER HAND THOSE KEITH BULLETS DON'T SHOOT ANY BETTER THAN THE SPREAD OF MY HAND AT 50 YARDS. THIS DID NOT REALLY SURPRISE NOR WORRY ME NOT IRRITATE ME ALL THAT MUCH AS THE KEITH BULLET WAS DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR 44SPL SIXGUNS ORIGINALLY.
LET ME NOTE THIS 35 YEAR OLD MARLIN WILL SHOOT 3-SHOT CLOVERLEAFS AT 100 YARDS WITH 240gr JHC BULLETS AND THE 300grJHP BULLETS WILL PUT THREE IN A CLOVERLEAF WITH A NEARBY FLIER AT 1000AM AND THE OTHER AT 200PM.
THE OTHER PROJECTILE YOU MENTION I AM NOT FAMILIER WITH ATALL.
IT IS FAIRLY EASY TO LENGTHEN THE THROATS IN A CARBINE LIKE YOURS AFTER YOU TAKE OUT THE BOLT IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLING/REAMER SETUP. THE KIOWA KID CAN DO THIS IN HIS SLEEP, YOU BETCHA !!!

[C. Cash]

Thank you Terry! These are the 265's here...just scroll down. http://www.carolinacastbullets.com/44_S ... agnum.html
I'll email Steve first thing and see if he's got the time. Had a blast shooting the 44 spec. Cowboy loads. Though undersized the went into a couple of inches at 70 yards.

[Pete44ru]

AFAIK, the "throat: is that part of the chamber between case mouth and rifling, which when overly long is often referred to as a "freebore" (most often seen in factory Weatherby Magnum rifles).

The "leade" is the first part/beginning of the rifling, that tapers from the throat size down to bore size. Some "leade's" are gradual, while others are more abrupt (read: less expensive to do)

IIRC, If cartridges longer than usual .44 Mag length are expected to actually feed from the Marlin 336's magazine, some reworking of the lifter will be needed, specifically the surface which limits cartridge travel after it's released from the mag.
If not, the bullet nose will not be clear of the receiver's internal magazine throat, and ergo will stop the lifter from rising properly.


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[C. Cash]

Thank you Pete......that refreshes the memory and does make sense. I'll make up a dummy round and verify cycling. I was single loading at the range and got focused on chambering. Appreciate it guys!

[C. Cash]

How hard is this to do, without screwing it up? I would think I would need go start with a chamber cast to see what the dimensions are?

[Pete44ru]

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With the bolt "out" of the rifle, and an extension handle on the properly-sized throat reamer, it can be easily done.

The chamber cast is an excellent idea for finding out just what's needed.

Care should be taken to ensure that the reamer is held concentric to the chamber/bore, so the use of a guide (similar to a cleaning rod guide) at the rear of the action may be needed.
The guide is usually not needed if a "pull-through" type reamer is available/used, as they are self-centering.

Also, I would strongly suggest keeping the working/cutting area of both the reamer and the throat well lubed with a cutting oil, as when tapping/threading a drilled hole.

Please remember: "baby steps" (It's hard to replace any removed metal ).

You might be able to rent a reamer, but IIRC it's fairly expensive to do so (and a deposit will be required in case the reamer is damaged or not returned for whatever reason).

If you think more/later similar jobs will need to be done, a reamer purchase may make more financial sense.

So might farming out the job to a good gunsmith. YMMV.

If you farm the job out, I would suggest also supplying a dummy round with the rifle - I would epoxy a sacrificial boolit seated in a sacrificial case to the OAL you desire.

Good luck in your project.


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[3leggedturtle]

My son had a Henry 30/30 he bought new, last year, it will chamber and shoot jacketed bullets superbly. My Lee soupcan 113grFP has to be seated almost flush with the case mouth to chamber even when sized to .308. Hope you get it "fixed" soon.

[C. Cash]

My son had a Henry 30/30 he bought new, last year, it will chamber and shoot jacketed bullets superbly. My Lee soupcan 113grFP has to be seated almost flush with the case mouth to chamber even when sized to .308. Hope you get it "fixed" soon.

We've had a blast with it using 44 Special brass and the Ranch Dog bullet. My boy killed a nice hog with it down in Texas with this setup, but would love to get it set up as it should be. It is a fine rifle and shoots small groups.

[C. Cash]

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With the bolt "out" of the rifle, and an extension handle on the properly-sized throat reamer, it can be easily done.

The chamber cast is an excellent idea for finding out just what's needed.

Care should be taken to ensure that the reamer is held concentric to the chamber/bore, so the use of a guide (similar to a cleaning rod guide) at the rear of the action may be needed.
The guide is usually not needed if a "pull-through" type reamer is available/used, as they are self-centering.

Also, I would strongly suggest keeping the working/cutting area of both the reamer and the throat well lubed with a cutting oil, as when tapping/threading a drilled hole.

Please remember: "baby steps" (It's hard to replace any removed metal ).

You might be able to rent a reamer, but IIRC it's fairly expensive to do so (and a deposit will be required in case the reamer is damaged or not returned for whatever reason).

If you think more/later similar jobs will need to be done, a reamer purchase may make more financial sense.

So might farming out the job to a good gunsmith. YMMV.

If you farm the job out, I would suggest also supplying a dummy round with the rifle - I would epoxy a sacrificial boolit seated in a sacrificial case to the OAL you desire.

Good luck in your project.


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Pete...you da man! As usual, thank you for your kind and informative post. It is greatly appreciated. I think I'm gonna go for it. Only live once. Plus I hate to wait ten months to get a rifle back.