1st time firing puzzle gun

[alnitak]

Last year I finished up a pre-64 1894 puzzle gun that I've acquired parts for on and off for years (BTW, big thanks to Griff, Joe and a number of others for their advice...and parts over that time). I have not shot it yet, but am planning to take it out soon. Everything seems to be in working order, and ammo feeds and ejects just fine. All parts installed are pre-64. The bolt/locking lug is a matched set from a .32 Win Special rifle and seem to fit like a glove, solid lockup without forcing anything.

Anything else I need to do before shooting for the first time, e.g., checking headspace? I bought the receiver with the barrel (and front sight) attached from a forum member, and frankly, have been working under the assumption that the barrel was installed correctly. I read about checking the headspace by adding layers of tape, but I don't have any dummy rounds and am leery of trying that with live ammo. Am I in any danger, or can I just shoot the rifle and then check to see if primers are backing out?

[TedH]

If you are leery of trying the tape thing with live ammo, just take the tape with you to the range and try it there in an environment where it is safe to load the rifle. If it checks out there with the tape, then peel it off and fire away.

[BrentD]

1. Carefully, measure an empty case length wise across the center axis of the case. Be sure that you know the orientation of the case so you can repeat this measurement and get the same number several times in a row.

2. Take a SPENT primer and insert it 1/2 into the brass

3. Insert the brass into the chamber and close the action fully

4. Without firing, remove the case and remeasure it as before. The difference between the measurement in Step 1 and the second set of measurements, is your head space.

[alnitak]

1. Carefully, measure an empty case length wise across the center axis of the case. Be sure that you know the orientation of the case so you can repeat this measurement and get the same number several times in a row.

2. Take a SPENT primer and insert it 1/2 into the brass

3. Insert the brass into the chamber and close the action fully

4. Without firing, remove the case and remeasure it as before. The difference between the measurement in Step 1 and the second set of measurements, is your head space.

Cool! I will try that...thanks.

Just to be clear, in step 4, I measure to the back of the spent primer sticking out?

[Booger Bill]

Take a rope and tie the rifle to a tree (pad the gun to protect the finish), take 25 feet of fishing line, tie to the trigger take cover and yank briskly.

[alnitak]

Take a rope and tie the rifle to a tree (pad the gun to protect the finish), take 25 feet of fishing line, tie to the trigger take cover and yank briskly.

LOL...believe me, I've considered this! If I had a shooting sled I could strap it into at the range, I'd do that very thing.

[earlmck]

Use BrentD's method and you can skip the string thing, alnitak. And I'm sure your know that Brent meant for you to use a factory-new case for the test. Both my 30/30's show some excess headspace and yet I've never lost a case to head separation: The old "thutty" must be pretty forgiving...

[Grizz]

I've done that a couple of times, using the pickup bumper. Takes the worry out of being close.

I like the tip on measuring headspace, thanks for that.

[Griff]

Take a rope and tie the rifle to a tree (pad the gun to protect the finish), take 25 feet of fishing line, tie to the trigger take cover and yank briskly.

LOL...believe me, I've considered this! If I had a shooting sled I could strap it into at the range, I'd do that very thing.

Facing dirt berm, lay a truck tire on its side, insert stock inside with barrel peeking out other side, lay another truck tire on top, attach string to trigger, yank. And I mean TRUCK tires, not a p/u!

What Brent said! Should be .003-.007", If greater than .011, get oversize locking lug.

[alnitak]

Use BrentD's method and you can skip the string thing, alnitak. And I'm sure your know that Brent meant for you to use a factory-new case for the test. Both my 30/30's show some excess headspace and yet I've never lost a case to head separation: The old "thutty" must be pretty forgiving...

Thanks. I did do some more research and found that note on using a new case...of course, I don't have one of those either. Just a bunch of used cases.

However, using the above technique with a case that has been shot once, the primer was pushed completely into the pocket. Visually, I see nothing protruding. OK, if I use my fingernail at an angle, I can possibly detect the very smallest "catch" as I go across the rim face. I tried using my caliper, though the battery is dead. Locking down the measurement of the case without the primer, I can slide the case with the primer (after closing the bolt) into the same space. This inexact measurement would seem to indicate I'm good to go. I will pick up a battery today to verify, though without a factory new case, not sure any measurements will be valid. Oh well...it's onto the tie a string on it method methinks!

[Blaine]

A headspace gauge is about 25 bucks.....

[alnitak]

Thanks. But given this is the only time I'll need one, I'll either borrow one, get a factory fresh shell and use the above method, or get a long string.

[BrentD]

I'm not sure why a new case is needed - IF a used case will slip w/o interference into the chamber. Any full length resized case should be fine if it is not too long that it runs into the end of the chamber and holds the case back. This is pretty unlikely and easy to check for by simply checking that the case rests firmly on the rim when in the chamber.


Brent

[Griff]

I'm not sure why a new case is needed - IF a used case will slip w/o interference into the chamber. Any full length resized case should be fine if it is not too long that it runs into the end of the chamber and holds the case back. This is pretty unlikely and easy to check for by simply checking that the case rests firmly on the rim when in the chamber.
Brent

Agreed. There's enough variance in newly manufactured cases as to negate any advantage they have for measuring headspace over a once-fired round. If you have any empty, sized case, that falls into the chamber, under this method, you'll still be measuring total headspace... as the round will be easier to push into the chamber than the primer will be to push inside the pocket... (given you use a sized case).

[TedH]

Sounds to me like you're good to go.

[alnitak]

Thanks all! I appreciate the advice and will provide an update when I get to the range.

[Chuck 100 yd]

If you use a fired case in the used primer head space test, the shoulder may have been fire formed to the chamber it was fired in and the cases rim not fully supporting the case during seating of the used primer. A used case should be full length resized before use in that test, or your results may not be accurate. That is the reason I own a set of headspace gauges for the.30-30 family of cartridges.

[alnitak]

A used case should be full length resized before use in that test, or your results may not be accurate.

Thanks. I repeated the test with another case that I made sure to FL resize...with same results. Primer seated fully. Think I'm good to go.

[Nath]

No disrespect but I think you are worrying to much.
To much is made of this kind of thing. It gets whipped up out of all proportion.
You are at more risk of harm walking down the stairs or driving an auto!

N.