Parts on order

[handirifle]

I finally placed the order for the remaining (or most of them anyway) parts for my 375 to 307 conversion. They did not have the new rear band screw, but I will wait till I go to do the conversion and see what exactly is needed. I figure, if nothing else I will make one, I'm retired and I got nuthin but time!

The rep said they ought to be here in about a week, so now the wait begins. I did a net search for 307 brass, and came up with a fellow here in CA that has 40 piece listed for free (once fired). I replied to his post and sent a PM but still waiting to see if they are still available.

Just for kicks, I dropped a loaded 308 round into the chamber, and it seated so only the groove in front of the base is exposed, so nuthing out of the ordinary there, nothing obvious anyway.

I have an action wrench for my Savage/Remington bolt guns, and I think I can adapt some home made parts to make it serve as a barrel wrench, and build a separate, specific action wrench.

Question
For those that have done this, when you place the wrench on the receiver, do you place anything INSIDE the receiver to prevent it from tweaking or worse? I would really not forgive myself if I overlooked this part and screwed up the receiver. Also some minor questions, the threads I assume are rightie tightie, leftie loosie? And how much force is usually required to break the barrel loose from the receiver, the first time? For tightening, it seems it was said to snug, then align the sights, right?

Thanks

[Old Savage]

You realize this is heretical. What barrel do you intend to use?

[BenT]

I use a barrel vise and built a action wrench for less than $10 at the hardware store. I might be able to take pictures this weekend if you want.

[handirifle]

You realize this is heretical. What barrel do you intend to use?

Yes I know! It's just something i have to do. Some guys lock door 5 or 6 times, I swap calibers. You're a Dr. you ought to understand.

ben T
yes I would like that, thanks.

[Old Savage]

And more to the point - I was a psych major.

[M. M. Wright]

Do you have access to a hydraulic press? Just a pair of vee blocks lined with annealed copper under the press will hold the barrel. I made an action wrench from a couple of pieces of 1.25 x 1.25 steel bar stock. Drilled them for 1/2 inch bolts just wide spaced enough to clear the action. One piece is about 6" long and the other 9". I use sheet lead for padding. Slip a 4' cheater pipe over the long end of the 9" piece and crank it off. The annealed copper is sorta "sticky" and you can always use powdered resin to increase grip. Lead has too much lubricity to hold the barrel, which will just turn in the blocks if you use lead there. If you think the barrel was installed using Loc-Tite, don't hesitate to use a LITTLE heat. 350 degrees will soften the Loc-Tite.

Use 1/2 - 20 (fine thread) bolts to get more pressure.

I'll try to take some pictures of this set-up or I still have an extra barrel vise I'll give you if you want to pay the shipping. Be advised it's pretty heavy so will cost about $40 to ship.

[Griff]

I leave the link & bolt in a mdl 94 to keep some support in the frame.

[Old Savage]

I don't know if God is gonna like this

[handirifle]

And more to the point - I was a psych major.

Shhhh, with Odumbo's new rules no telling what trouble THAT might bring up. I get the point though. No guarantee it will stay a 307, for sure. If I ever get a real efficient method of making lead free 375 Win bullets, or is someone else does where they cost UNDER $2 each, I might go back. I always look for something different. heck this way I can use my dads gun LEGALLY. That part is still under consideration. But if that happened, no one but me will ever know. Sorry, some rules are just plain stupid.

[handirifle]

Do you have access to a hydraulic press? Just a pair of vee blocks lined with annealed copper under the press will hold the barrel. I made an action wrench from a couple of pieces of 1.25 x 1.25 steel bar stock. Drilled them for 1/2 inch bolts just wide spaced enough to clear the action. One piece is about 6" long and the other 9". I use sheet lead for padding. Slip a 4' cheater pipe over the long end of the 9" piece and crank it off. The annealed copper is sorta "sticky" and you can always use powdered resin to increase grip. Lead has too much lubricity to hold the barrel, which will just turn in the blocks if you use lead there. If you think the barrel was installed using Loc-Tite, don't hesitate to use a LITTLE heat. 350 degrees will soften the Loc-Tite.

Use 1/2 - 20 (fine thread) bolts to get more pressure.

I'll try to take some pictures of this set-up or I still have an extra barrel vise I'll give you if you want to pay the shipping. Be advised it's pretty heavy so will cost about $40 to ship.

Thanks for the info and offer, ( I know the shipping is a killer) but I will most likely make something up. I figured I'd weld a pipe onto one of the plates for leverage.

[handirifle]

I leave the link & bolt in a mdl 94 to keep some support in the frame.

Is there a link somewhere to total teardown of a '94? Are they on youtube?

[Griff]

I leave the link & bolt in a mdl 94 to keep some support in the frame.

Is there a link somewhere to total teardown of a '94? Are they on youtube?

Somewhere on this confuser I've got the instructions. I'll look when I ain't drivin' & I get some sleep. Shoot me a PM with an email addr. & I'll send it later today.

[olyinaz]

I didn't check it out, but this looks to fit the bill:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjPlLQf73gQ

Oly

[BenT]

Sorry it took so long for me to get around to this.
The devise on the left is my barrel vise. Just drill a hole in a piece of hard would the correct size , then cut in half. I have a couple different diameters I work with . The tools are made out of a single piece of 1/4 in by 2 in bar stock. After clamping the barrel in the barrel vise, clamp the longer leg of the barrel vise into your bench vise. This will hold it while trying to unscrew the barrel.

The other tool is the action wrench. Just sandwich the receiver into this with the long handle pointing up. I use cardboard between the receiver and wrench. I do not take about the action . I open the lever up enough so the extractor is not in contact with the barrel. Leaving the bolt in helps the receiver not to flex when tightening down the wrench.

Once everything is in place and secured in the bench vise , I take the big orange hammer and swing it like baseball bat , hitting the action wrench handle to break the barrel free. I have used a heat gun on the threads , wrapped the barrel with leather. The hard part is to keep the barrel from spinning in the blocks. I've had one Winchester that I couldn't break the barrel free on, that I had to take to friend with a commercial barrel vise. We still used my action wrench.

Good Luck!

[handirifle]

olyinaz
Thanks
IO looked at that one and a few others, they help a lot.

BenT
The picture really helps, it is kinda what I had in mind, so I am on the right track mentally. (for once). I got my 307 brass, in today. 100 pieces of new WW brass so am good to go there, and there was a message on the phone, since I was out of town all day, that my cartridge guides, and barrel bands are here too. Woo hoo.

I will get those tomorrow, and will see what else I need. They didn't have one of the screws so hope I don't need it, but if I do, I will have to make one. hey, that's what having a lathe is all about. It's not the destination, it's the journey.

Took a look at the brass, and there's not a huge difference between the base of it and 308. I will try a few 308 cases for kicks, just to see. Now I wonder if the 307 brass will cycle in the Savage 308? Hmmmmmm.

I know the Savage is said to USUALLY not cycle rimmed cases too well, but like most things, I have to see it to believe it.

I will have to acquire some steel for my new tools.

BenT
Did I read right, that you just open the bolt a little to clear the bolt from the barrel, and NOT disassemble the action? Has that ever caused any issues?

Thanks

[Mescalero]

A Phsyc major huh,
You do realise that your proclivity for firearms has disenfranchised you from your former fellow travelers.

[BenT]

olyinaz
Thanks


BenT
Did I read right, that you just open the bolt a little to clear the bolt from the barrel, and NOT disassemble the action? Has that ever caused any issues?

Thanks

No problem the same is true for any flat sided receiver , shotgun or rifle . Flat sides with flex ,so keeping the bolt helps from distorting the frame. The action wrench just has to be snug enough not to move around. Make sure to degrease the barrel before clamping it in the vise. I just read on how to make a barrel vise with angle iron and a pipe. If you have a welder I could send you the instructions.

[handirifle]

Well, got the package, BUT it wasn't my big bore parts , something else entirely. Bummer. Oh well a few more days I hope.