Primer Pocket Uniformer question

[alnitak]

OK...with the current conditions, I've decided to get into 5.56/2.23 reloading. I've read a bunch about various primers (e.g., don't use Winchester SR, use CCI #41 and Remington 7 1/2), slam-fires, etc. I've seem recommendations for a primer pocket uniformer tool to ream out to SAAMI specs and ensure one can seat primers the recommended .003"-.004" below the rim (allowing the use of other primers beyond the two recommended). However, in looking at the tool, there is one that handles both small rifle and small pistol primer pockets -- not one for each. So, I'm confused...I thought rifle primers were taller than pistol primers...so how can one (fixed) tool ream to an appropriate depth for both??

[Blaine]

The last I heard of this in this forum was that someone miked a bunch, and found no real difference.....

[Tycer]

iirc, large rifle and large pistol are different, small are same. WSPM and WSR are identical......I think..

[jhrosier]

For what it's worth, I use a RCBS primer pocket swager to remove the crimp from military brass. I tried a reamer and found it too much trouble, YMMV.
The swager also puts a small radius on the pocket.

Jack

[Rusty]

I've always used a Lee Hand tool for removing G.I. primers the first time, then run a sharp pocket knife around the rim of the pocket to remove the crimp. After that they run thru a press just fine.

[Pete44ru]

FWIW, "Pistol" & "Rifle" primers are exactly the same size, depth-wise.

It's their respective cup thickness that's different - the pistol primer's cup being somwhat thinner for a surer ignition in handguns, which are perceived to have a weaker MS than rifles.

OTOH, "Pistol" & "Rifle" primers are both made in two different diameters (sizes): "large" & "small" - not to mention variations like "standard" & "magnum" (hotter)


.

[alnitak]

Thanks all. Guess I was under a false impression that the rifle and pistol primers were of different "heights."

[Charles]

Do remove the crimp and use whatever small rifle primer that suits your fancy. The CCI for auto loading rifles is favored by many. I don't worry about that in my Garand, but maybe I should. I give close attention to the details of loading for the Garand.

You don't mention what press you use. If you are using a progressive press, most certainly uniform the primer pockets. You don't want to run accrosss the occasional shallow one and get a high primer. With a progressive press, you have very limited feel and control over primer seating depth with progressive presses.

Some folks don't give enough thought and care to primer seating. For accuracy and reliability it is import that the primer be seated in the bottom of the primer pocket but not so hard as to crush the cake of priming compound. The only way to be certain of this, is to seat the primers by hand where you can feel what is going on. If you can't feel the primers seat, then pocket uniforming become more important.

In an auto-loading rifle, you don't want..

1. A high primer
2. A case that is not trimmed to the proper length
3. A case that is not FL sized.
4. A FL sizing dies that is not adjusted with a guage to make certain that it is set properly.

Handloading for the auto-loading rifle required some extra care and attention. You do not want a slam fire or a round going off before the bolt locking lugs are fully engaged. It is safe to load for these rifles, but keep your eye on the ball!

[alnitak]

Thanks Charles. I appreciate the heads up.

I have a hand press and a single stage press. I always use a Lee Auto-primer (by hand obviously) and make sure the primers are set below the surface of the rim. While I use a primer pocket tool to clean all cases, that doesn't ensure a uniform depth, however, I have never had a primer stick up. Now, so far, I have only loaded for pistol cartridges and the .45-70. The .223/5.56 will be my first semi-auto load, so I wanted to be sure I followed the recommended procedure to avoid any slam-fires.