Lever technique?

[Canuck Bob]

A learning question on how others work their lever actions, please?

When I bought my 444 the old fellow behind the counter instructed me to work the lever in two very deliberate motions. He advised making sure the forward stroke was quick and completely forward, hesitate for a split second, then lever back to load. I'm not talking a long pause just a tiny stop at the forward stroke limit. Experience and practice taught me to not slam the lever hard against the stop as well. His idea was that with the hesitation a guy was sure to fully cycle the action.

I know folks who use a quick flicking or snapping action, much quicker and more fluid than mine, that does not involve any sense of hesitating. They were real handy with a lever.

I watch new comers to levers at the range who cycle like they cycle bolts when not in a hurry. A sorta click, click, click kinda motion. Even when unloading I try and cycle quicker than they do.

Also my Winoku 92 is my slickest while my 444 seems slicker than my Win 94. The BLR actually cycled real nice considering all the hardware ratcheting around in one.

I don't see any difference in function but thought I would ask.

[J Miller]

Bob,

I do it with one motion down and one motion back. I don't deliberately hesitate because by the time the lever comes to a complete stop at the end of the down stroke everything that is going to happen, has.

The quickness of my down, up motions only varies slightly from gun to gun ( design variations ) or if I'm in a big hurry or not.

Joe

[Leverdude]

It shouldnt matter, though many folks will say you need to operate them with authority. All of my lever actions, predominately Marlins, work as fast or as slow as I operate them, if I get one that wont & I cant fix it I wont keep it. I frequently baby them to keep brass on the bench.

[new pig hunter]

One of the prevailing theories I've read regarding Marlins is that slow cycling increases the chances for Marlin Jam.

So I am quick and authoritative when cycling my Marlin .444 and Marlin 375. The .444 has jammed a couple of times, the .375 never.
My Win BigBore94, it has the slickest smoothest action of all, and flawless feed, whether cycling fast or slow.

Cheers,

Carl

[FWiedner]

My Marlins will cycle almost anything without too much worry or trouble.

My Winchesters ain't bad but every once in a while I'll short stroke the Model 94 .30-30 and drop hammer on an empty chamber. With that one I've got to make sure I get a complete forward lever movement. It's my only lever that I've got to make a conscious effort to do a full range-of-motion cycle, the rest just seem work without thinking about it.

I'd guess that's two distinct movements, down and back with no hesitation at the bottom.

[Lastmohecken]

I have had a few 1886 replicas that demanded a fairly decent snap on the down stroke to make the lifter raise up. I usually work one pretty snappy, just bottom out good and top out good and they usually work, unless there is a mechanical problem that needs addressing.

And I always stick my trigger finger out straight outside of the trigger guard, and bring it back in after the lever completely closes, no pinched trigger fingers for me.

[MrMurphy]

Any manually operated weapon, lever, bolt action rifle or pump shotgun.

Work it like you mean it. With levers, usually a flick-flick, no sightseeing stops, rest breaks or pit crew wave-ins. Just that little pause changing direction.

And done from the shoulder. Always. Same with bolt actions.