Gun Safes.....recommendations... update

[RIHMFIRE]

I went to look at safes this morning....
and of course the safe I wanted to check out,...was not in stock!
24 gun Stack-on... 30 min fire rating at 1400'

I was wondering what kind of safes you guys would recommend?

[Shasta]

I've been happy with my Liberty Franklin model, except for I think it must be shrinking as there is not nearly as much room in there as there used to be.

[pwl44m]

I know Pants shrink but I didn't know safes did. LOL Maybe that is why I have 3 to give them room to grow. 1 is home made and the others are Cannon and Remington, I think the latters are made by the same company. If You are next door to the fire dept rating might matter , otherwise I don't think there is much help. Just My 2 c
Perry

[Old Ironsights]

I like General Electric...




And I've got room for 3 more boom sticks...

[Rusty]

I think the reason gun safes shrink is because we usually keep the pants and the safe in the same closet.

[Lastmohecken]

I have 2, the first one is an old key lock type, and it's served me well, but has no fire rating. The second is a Champion, with a dial type lock.

Fire rating is important, but also look at the metal thickness, and the cylinders or shall I say bars on the door, it should have several bars that move in and out, on all sides of the door. And I suggest staying with a dial type combination lock, because I have known of several guys that have had the electronic locks mess up, and even the safe saleman told me that, and he had plenty of electronic lock type safes to sell.

Also, buy the biggest and best safe you can afford, maybe even more then you can afford, because unless you are happy with only a few guns, it will get full.

Be sure and bolt your safe down to the floor, and if you can place it in a spot that guards the sides, and back, top too, you are better off, because as far as break-ins go, the door is pretty much hardened on the good safes, but the sides and back, and top are usually not that thick, with many being only 10ga or less, and frankly a pro, or anyone that has worked some construction, will have the skills and probably the equipment to cut into one of those in very little time. I could take a 4 inch grinder and a couple of zip blades and be into most gun safes in probably 10 or 15 minutes, by cutting into the side or top.

To really stand up to a major attempt, most safes need to be hardened by adding an extra layer of steel to sides, top and back, be bolted down really good, and hopefully be in a place where it can't be yanked out with a log chain.

Of course a good alarm system would be a big help.

[pete-driver]

Tip......Buy the biggest one you can fit through the door. Sardines have it good compared to my guns.

[allhands]

I agree with the manual dial type lock. A few years ago I responded to a fire in a restuarant that was in the vicinity of the owners safe. despite it being a relatively small fire, the electronic lock on the safe was melted. The manufacturer took a long time to get the safe open.

[Tycer]

Buy one with a good lock and build a 4" block room filled with concrete and rebar tight around it with a steel door with a deadbolt. The block and steel door can be your fire rating. Most all gun "safes" can be peeled open from the side like a can or have the door pried out at the top and folded outward vertically if they don't have bars on all sides. The block room takes care of both and adds fire protection. The ceiling of mine is five layers of cement board gorilla glued together. It's an entry level Liberty and even with paying a guy to put drywall on the outside of the "room" it cost less than the safe with the bar on top.

[RIHMFIRE]

Buy one with a good lock and build a 4" block room filled with concrete and rebar tight around it with a steel door with a deadbolt. The block and steel door can be your fire rating. Most all gun "safes" can be peeled open from the side like a can or have the door pried out at the top and folded outward vertically if they don't have bars on all sides. The block room takes care of both and adds fire protection. The ceiling of mine is five layers of cement board gorilla glued together. It's an entry level Liberty and even with paying a guy to put drywall on the outside of the "room" it cost less than the safe with the bar on top.

I had a very similar idea.....
I want to build, what we call a "safe room" here in Florida...for hurricanes...
so if we do get hit by a major storm..(140mph winds)...we dont have to leave the house....
could take your idea and put the gun safe in the corner....

[RIHMFIRE]

well...I just found out that if you buy a 24 gun safe,
you can barely get 16 yo 17 guns in there...
especially if you have scopes on them...
So if you have 24 long guns... buy a gun safe can handle 32...

[Mescalero]

Yes,
The scoped rifles crowd the safe, I put mine (plural) in a safe place and then built a secure room around it.

[Idahoser]

fire rating comes from drywall (gypsum board, SheetRock, whatever they call it where you live). Line your safe with it yourself and make your own shelves and dividers.

Dial type lock, no electronics for me.

I have a Heritage and love it. And yes, they shrink.

[madman4570]

I like General Electric...




And I've got room for 3 more boom sticks...

Actually, that is probably the very best idea going.
Put er down cellar,wrap a chain around it and put a sign(note pad) on door (Reminder---do not refreeze meat once thawed)

Love it!

[fordwannabe]

as far as not being able to get as many guns as the safe is rated for try rifle rodz. I got mine from the internet and while it is not the end all be all for safes I can now get 21 guns in my 24 gun safe instead of the 13-14 I was getting. Just a thought.
I wanted a "new" safe and put the word out to all my friends......several months later my buddy called to tell me the company where he works was giving one away for FREE THATS THE BEST PRICE FOR ME. I am in the midst of repainting it and reconfiguring the interior to my needs but I am taking pics and planned to do a post about it when done. As a hint the safe is from the 1930s but looks just like the ones from all the westerns and I have just gotten a proof of a stencil that says
FIRST CATTLEMANS BANK
DEER LODGE MT

a smaller one that is to be the manufactures label
WINMAR LOCK AND SAFE CO
NEW HAVEN CT

why winmar? What am i putting in it?

[RIHMFIRE]

as far as not being able to get as many guns as the safe is rated for try rifle rodz. I got mine from the internet and while it is not the end all be all for safes I can now get 21 guns in my 24 gun safe instead of the 13-14 I was getting. Just a thought.
I wanted a "new" safe and put the word out to all my friends......several months later my buddy called to tell me the company where he works was giving one away for FREE THATS THE BEST PRICE FOR ME. I am in the midst of repainting it and reconfiguring the interior to my needs but I am taking pics and planned to do a post about it when done. As a hint the safe is from the 1930s but looks just like the ones from all the westerns and I have just gotten a proof of a stencil that says
FIRST CATTLEMANS BANK
DEER LODGE MT

a smaller one that is to be the manufactures label
WINMAR LOCK AND SAFE CO
NEW HAVEN CT

why winmar? What am i putting in it?

cant wait to see that!

[Mescalero]

I have 3 and still can't get it all in there

[Ysabel Kid]

Tip......Buy the biggest one you can fit through the door. Sardines have it good compared to my guns.

+1

I got a large, no-frills Champion. Didn't want to pay for finish; wanted to get size. It is not a piece of furniture to me, but an "anti-scum-bag" device...