Trading for a levergun..any opinions?

[Hungarian]

Need your opinions. I want to take my bolt action rifle (remington 700 sps tactical in 223 new in box) to a gunshow and trade it for a levergun. I figure the trade value on the sps should be maybe 500 bucks. What type of levergun would I be able to trade for it? Are there any undervalued leverguns that are going for a good price? Any guns to stay away from? I like the old winchesters but I am not probably even in the ball park for one of those.

[Pitchy]

I would think you should see some 94 30-30`s in that price range or Marlin 336`s.
Rossi 44 mags or even a Browning possible.

[C. Cash]

Is there a particular brand, caliber or style that tickles your fancy? Watch out for guntraders tricks. A scope can hide major problems with the iron sights on the barrel(dovetails milled off center or barrel over rotated for headspace?). Thats the kind of small stuff we seem to miss in the excitement of it all, which turns into big headaches when you get home. Take serious time to stare at it and wonder why someone would want to get rid of a perfectly good levergun, as you don't want to buy someone elses problems. Anyone tries to hurry you into the deal, walk away. Don't ask me how I know about that, or barrels with sights that shoot two feet off at 25 yards.

[Hungarian]

Thanks for the advice of checking the barrel and sight alignment. I tend to like the 92's and 94's. hopefully I can pick up a 94 in 30/30.

[pwl44m]

Look for the Guy that has 1 maybe 2 Levers and some other actions even Shotguns and a Pistol or 2. He is most likley not a Collector trying to get rid of something He got burned on. Just take Ur time and don't trade at the first Table, look around -see what is out there.
It scares Me to think a Newbie is going to a Gun Show to buy a Gun. Not sayin all dealers R crooks but most of U Guys know what I'm sayin.
If U R going to carry the Gun in to the Show, Put a sign on it For Sale or Trade. It might be what other shoppers R looking for and will pay more than a Dealer.
Be patient and I hope U get what U want and Ur Happy.

[C. Cash]

I would avoid the cross bolt models myself, even though I own two...I would go pre-safety. My own preferences would be for a pre-64 Mod. 94 or one of the Big Bore models...the 356 Win. being the front runner and the 307 Win. in second place.

[JBledsoe]

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Wow! Those gun traders are going love to see you coming.

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[Rusty]

Jr. has that same M700 and it has been a big disappointment. As much as 8" at 100 yards at times. He talked to a gunsmith just yesterday that said he thought he could help him set it right.

Good luck at the show.

[gak]

Look specifically for a Win 94 from the late 70s to 80/81 or so, or whenever USRAC took over (usually can read it on the butt if it's a USRAC)...or appx 4,800,xxx-5,xxx,,xxx range (very roughly). The later 70s saw Win bring back (at least apparent) quality from some very lean years. The receiver done with a different treatment to better take or approximate bluing from the vaunted earlier days is one example. Cartridge lifter (actually improved in the mid 70s?) also closer to the Pre's, and some "real" wood on some models, etc. Since these late 70s are still technically "Post 64" they should still be under-valued compared to a nice Pre. I've got and enjoy several of the latter, and two of the former (late 70s). Pre's are great, but if you don't have the jingle for (or can't find/trade), a nice late 70s will do a good approximation.

[C. Cash]

JBledsoe, you've misunderstood what I am saying to the OP. Ninety Eight percent of these folks aren't going to try and take advantage of you, or conveniently leave key facts out, give or take. It's the two percent you want to watch out for. It's good to have your eyes open at such times, rather than let your emotions get the best of you. Not trying to make guntraders into the boogeyman at all here.

[Jeff H]

My advice would be to hang out here for a while, watch, listen and ask all the "stupid" questions that come to mind.
You took the first right step by posting here to ask.
I have owned four levers in my life, to include a Ruger No. 3 in .223, which may not count, an Ithaca 49, which I wish I had back, a Marlin 94 in .44 mag. and recently the '92 Rossi that I just bought a couple months ago - AFTER lurking here for years and finally registering and asking some questions. So, with my very limited lever experience, these fellas here on this forum were the biggest help.

The Rossi I got has a lot of potential and the pre-safety Marlin I had was very well made and a good design.
The Rossi can be considered a "kit" gun because mine wasn't quite finished when I got it out of the box.
The Marlin was used and had several things broken but was easy to figure out and work on.

The Rossi is MUCH handier than the Marlin I had, but doesn't have as good a set of sights and the wood sucks. The Marlin had "fat" wood up front but that was easily remedied. The Marlin was D/T'd fro a reciever sight, but there are options for the Rossi and D/T'ing doesn't look as fussy as it might be for a bolt gun or D/T'ing a barrel for sights.

[AJMD429]

You didn't mention what type shooting you mostly are doing. I kind of group leverguns into five categories:

• There's Rimfire leverguns - Henry's very inexpensive and very good but 'tacky' looking, Winchesters and Marlins far pricier but within the range you mention. Rugers too, if you can find one. All inexpensive to shoot.
  
  There's .30-30's type leverguns (.35 Remington, etc.) - midsized versatile rifle-chambered ones. Not useable for deer legally in many areas, but fun to shoot. Also can be inexpensive if you cast bullets or buy cast ones to reload. Easy on the shoulder.
  
  There's 'Pistol-caliber' leverguns - .44's, .357's, .45 Colts, in modern-arms, and .32-20, .25-20, etc. in older ones - same power range as the midsize .30-30 types, but more a 'rainbow' trajectory. That makes them likelier to be legal for deer in more areas, and also makes them compatible ammo-wise with many revolvers.
  
  There's 'Big-bore' leverguns - big caliber like the 'pistol-caliber' ones, but also big cartridges - like .444 Marlin, .45-70, etc. More power than you need other than Africa or Bear country, but fun to shoot.
  
  Finally, there's 'Pointy-bullet' leverguns - Savage 99 and Browning BLR mostly, that shoot things like .308 and such. They don't know they're leverguns. Different 'style' due to box magazine and so on, but definitely versatile if you like flatter-shooting rifle rounds.

Before you're done with leverguns, you'll likely have one or more of each type. I still don't have the 'Pointy-bullet' kind, though, because I find the 'Pistol-caliber' ones so much fun to shoot and am working on getting each of my kids one so we can all go blasting at the range at the same time.

[Blaine]

I'm convinced that trading with a dealer is a bad idea. You'll only get about half or so what yours is worth. Sell yours for a honest price, and go shopping with cash......

[TedH]

I'm convinced that trading with a dealer is a bad idea. You'll only get about half or so what yours is worth. Sell yours for a honest price, and go shopping with cash......

+1

[Gobblerforge]

Just a thought. If you happen to have a friend that actually knows a thing or two about whatever type of firearm your interested in, invite them to go to the show with you. For the cost of an extra admission you can have a valued opinion right there to look at it with you.
Gobbler

[O.S.O.K.]

I'm convinced that trading with a dealer is a bad idea. You'll only get about half or so what yours is worth. Sell yours for a honest price, and go shopping with cash......

+1

+1

Exactly my thought when I read the OP - and you may be undervaluing your Remington... I sell my stuff through gunbroker - go there, do a search for this model and see what they are selling for - which ones have bids and what the bid prices are. Listed prices mean next to nothing.

[BigSky56]

Which kind of gun you get would depend on the end use if you need optics or not and if you are going to hunt with it. A savage 99 lever is a classic hunting rifle put some glass on it and you have a long distance gun they can be had in 250 and 300 sav and some other calibers to, if its a older gun they take special mounts for the glass 150-200$ as they arent drilled for modern mounts course they can be drilled and tapped if you want. A 99 in 300 can be had for 400+, your remmy without glass wholesales for 530$ new. the comments about selling your rifle outright might get you more $ unless you find a guy that wants to trade for it real bad. Good luck. danny

[J Miller]

Hungarian,

All the above ideas and suggestions are good, so I won't repeat them.
I'll just add these comments:
When trading make sure the gun your getting rid of is one you can live without. I'm serious about this. If you keep having second and third thoughts about trading it .... don't. Walk away because you really don't want to trade it.

Also make sure the one you trade for is one you really really really want and will use. Not just one that tickles your fancy today, and tomorrow it will sit ignored in the safe.

By doing these two things, you avoid traders remorse. And believe me, traders remorse is a real, tangible pain to live with.

I've suffered from traders and sellers remorse so much in the past that I got to the point I do not trade guns any more, and very rarely sell them.
If I really really got the hots for something new, like the newly released Ruger SR1911 , I am somehow gonna save up the funds to get it. I will not trade for it. That way I will appreciate my acquisition more, and if it turns out to be a dog, I haven't lost a gun to get it.

Joe