OT-Another Garand question: setting the sights

[awp101]

Since Garands have gotten popular around here recently, I thought I'd ask about this. On another forum, I ran across the following for setting the sights:

I find that the old Highpower shooters "Come Up's Rule of Thumb" works just fine.

From 100 to 200: Come up 1-2 MOA
From 200 to 300: Come up 2-3 MOA more
From 300 to 600: Come up 11 MOA more

http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsfo ... topic/3615

My question is, how many clicks are in an MOA?

I'll dig around some more and see what I can find but I figure asking here won't hurt and I'm not the only one who's curious. Or maybe I am...

[Pisgah]

Although someone will know the answer to your question, I don't. But if I were you, I'd benchrest-shoot it at 100 yards, come up one click, shoot it again, and measure how far up the second shot goes. If it's slightly over an inch, then 1 click=1 MOA.

[CEMENTHEAD]

MOST Issue sights are 1 click = 1 M.O.A. graduated. There are 2 different rear sights I know of. Maybe more.......

National Match sights are 1 click = 1/2 M.O.A. graduated.

[Les Staley]

Garands and M14s are one click = 1 MOA (All of them, even NM rifles.) NM rifles have a rotateing aperature that allows half minute adjustment. Garands are calibrated in Yards.. M14s in Meters.. It is possible to use parts on either rifle from the other, so check the elevation barrel for marking. If you have access to a 1000 yd range, shoot all the way out and record your come-ups on a card, or on a piece of white tape under the flapper on the M14 buttplate.. I have done so, and have come-ups all the way to 1200 yds on one of my M14s useing Aussie Nato ammo, which I have several thousand rounds off.. HTH Les

[CEMENTHEAD]

was just about to amend that statement....Thanks Les for the clear up

Thanks, Tom

[Les Staley]

Tom: no problem,, I've always wanted a NM rifle.. (I have six Garands left, three H&Rs, a Winchester, a Springfield and a International Harvester, and 2 M14s) but have studied them with drool running down my chin for years..Will retire in a year or so, and should have more time to burn off some of this ammo..Les

[Hobie]

Les, you may think you'll have more time but that will only last until everyone around you realizes you're retired. Suddenly, you'll be busier than you ever thought you would be.

[Les Staley]

Hobie: You don't know just how grouchy I can be... somebody calls me and "this is Dave"................ my usual reply is "Just which Dave is this?? I only know about 50 "Daves"... (or even worse.) One day my minister called.... almost got kicked out of the congregation for my reply to him.... People usually learn to just leave me alone.. Les

[awp101]

Thanks, that's what I suspected. 10 or so clicks from the bottom got me centered at 25yds but I figured I'd better know where to go when I get to longer ranges.

On a side note, using the bullet test here: http://www.m1garand.net/Data_Files/Jerry/test2.jpg and the measurements on the Fulton Armory website for their MW gauge, it's probably time for a new barrel. IF I've done it correctly and IF the Korean surplus is equivalent to M2 ball, it's gauging .305" at the muzzle.

* 0.0 indicates a .300” diameter bore, that is, .30 caliber, new, perfect.
* 0.5 is like new, .3005 caliber. Proper re-crowning will perfect the crown.
* 1.0 is excellent for a used barrel (.301 cal.) Re-crowning should make it like new.
* 1.5 is good (.3015 cal.). Proper re-crowning should make it excellent.
* 2.0 is fair (.302 cal.). Proper re-crowning should make it serviceable.
* 2.5 is poor (.3025 cal.). Proper re-crowning might make it serviceable.
* 3.0 or more is a "bald tire" and is now a British .303 caliber barrel. Replace barrel

I've thought about replacing it anyway to get rid of the Blue Sky import stamp. This may be the impetus I need.

[Malamute]

Your range markings on the drum on the left rear side of the sight will be pretty good. You have to zero the gun by shooting, then loosen the locking bar or screw on the center of the drum on the right. After loosening it, and without disturbing the actual sight adjustment, rotate the now loosened left drum to indicate the range you just sighted in for, (100 yards), then snug up the locking bar or screw on the right. Your range markings should be good now. A couple clicks of adjustment at longer ranges may be needed to fine tune it.

After zeroing it, you can turn the left drum down all the way, and slowly turn it back to your 100 yard mark, counting clicks. You can now do it without looking at it or in the dark. Knowing the number of clicks up from 100 will also give you your longer ranges without looking.

A match front sight is nice. It doesnt make it a match rifle, but gives a cleaner sight picture.

Your gun may shoot well with the barrel it has, shoot it some before deciding to spend the money. I had one with a rough barrel that shot horribly. The bedding was sloppy loose, and I shimmed it with cardboard cartridge box material. It shot MUCH better. I had it bedded, and decided I didnt need a barrel.

[awp101]

After zeroing it, you can turn the left drum down all the way, and slowly turn it back to your 100 yard mark, counting clicks. You can now do it without looking at it or in the dark. Knowing the number of clicks up from 100 will also give you your longer ranges without looking.

Thanks, I also read writing it down in a note pad that stays with your range stuff is helpful and taping another card to the inside bottom of the trigger group is a good idea as well.

Your gun may shoot well with the barrel it has, shoot it some before deciding to spend the money. I had one with a rough barrel that shot horribly. The bedding was sloppy loose, and I shimmed it with cardboard cartridge box material. It shot MUCH better. I had it bedded, and decided I didnt need a barrel.

That's the plan. So far it appears that as long as I do my part, it's certainly adequate for 100yd open sight hunting (the max I do with open sights anyway). Some judicious handloading won't hurt either. Down the road when I get a couple of projects out of the way and some fun money built back up I may look at having Fulton Armory, Orion 7 or some place like that give it a thorough examination for a possible rebuild. I bought it used (so to speak) but other than swapping out the trigger guard assembly (worn lugs), AFAIK it's in the same basic shape as the day it came off the boat from S Korea in the 80s.

[Malamute]

"Thanks, I also read writing it down in a note pad that stays with your range stuff is helpful and taping another card to the inside bottom of the trigger group is a good idea as well."

I reckon you could, but it takes all of 2 or 3 seconds to check it. Just memorizing it you can do it without looking at the sight. If you can see the sight, it wouldnt be neccesary to write it down, you can see the yard markings easily. In other words, if you look at what you wrote down, it would take longer than just doing it by looking at the sight.

Once the sight is zeroed for a known range by shooting, the range drum is loosed and set to what you sighted for, and is clearly marked on the sight. Does that make sense?

[awp101]

Malamute, it does make sense. And I think the written reference was in case the drum came loose during a match which makes more sense than my initial understanding.