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OK, I will fully admit my ignernce when it comes to metal and woodworking tools other than belt sanders, drill presses and Dremels. And even then, it's more a matter of being able to correctly identify one of those items two out of three times...
Reading a couple of gunsmithing threads around the 'net, I keep running across references to swiss files. What are swiss files?
In fact, is there a good websight out there on files and filework in general? I think a basic working knowledge of metal and woodworking tools is something every man should know and mine is sorely lacking.
Last edited by awp101 on Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits.
-Mark Twain
Proverbs 3:5; Philippians 4:13
Got to have a Jones for this
Jones for that
This running with the Joneses boy
Just ain't where it's at
Well Andrew, I am more of a Jack of all trades, master of none. But it is my understanding that Swiss files are simply small, fine metal files of varied shapes used in metal finishing. I found the following pic at Brownells which lists this as a "swiss pattern" round file...
Think of how fine & highly-regarded the internals of a Swiss watch are, then think of the tools it takes to make those watches that way (besides extrordinarily-fine workmanship).
Ergo, "Swiss" files.
I use flat & pointed ones to "sweeten" up the angles in close metal fittings, and to true-up other surfaces ; and the arced/curved ones for non-flat surfaces.
( I have a dozen or so)
Swiss pattern files are a very smooth cut file and usually parallel rather than tapered.. I have and use several of the double cut Barrettes and a few Pillar style. These are the last file you will use on fine work, except for draw filing and then a long angle draw (lathe) file should be used rather than a regular mill style.
These are the file rules i had to learn the hard way...
#1 Files never touch
#2 Put a hnadle on it
#3 Keep it clean and card often
#4 NO OIL on a good file
#5 Chalk your draw file
#6 Don't mix your files, brass for brass steel for steel wood for wood and don't interchange.
I have probably a hundred files in the shop for various jobs and some of them I got from my Grandfather. If you buy a good file and take care of it it will last forever. If you buy a cheap file you have just wasted time and money. My metal checkering files were bought from Brownell's in 1975 and are still in use. When I bought them I thought I spending $5 each on files was way overboard, now I see that was some of the best money I ever spent.
Right on about the separate files. I remember reading in the Dixie Gun Works catalog a long time ago old Turner Kirkland himself used to write little tips and hints and place them all through the pages at random. One of those little snippets said that when he (Turner) was in the Army he had to take a class on how to use a file. They told them there to never use a file used for brass on anything else. Turner said being the hardhead that he was he tried it and after cutting the brass, the file wouldn't cut steel.
If you're gonna be stupid ya gotta be tough-
Isiah 55:8&9
It's easier to fool people than it is to convince them they have been fooled.
"They told them there to never use a file used for brass on anything else.......after cutting the brass, the file wouldn't cut steel." Anyone know why?
What does the brass "do" to the file (brass being softer than steel) to make this so?
If the brass "plugs" the teeth of the file couldn't the file be carded clean?
"Any man who covers his face and packs a gun is a legitimate target for any decent citizen"
Jeff Cooper
Bullard4075 wrote:I like to know the why of things.
"They told them there to never use a file used for brass on anything else.......after cutting the brass, the file wouldn't cut steel." Anyone know why?
What does the brass "do" to the file (brass being softer than steel) to make this so?
If the brass "plugs" the teeth of the file couldn't the file be carded clean?
THIS IS ONE OF THE LESSONS IN LIFE BEST LEARNED BY ONESELF. DO REMEMBER, ALL EDJEMACATION IS EXPENSIVE NO MATTER HOW IT IS OBTAINED.
I have two sets of Jewelers (Swiss pattern) files.
One I purchased from Brownells over 35 years ago and a set I bought cheap,(japan) about 15 years ago.
They are both still as good as new. Just take care of them.
And just how does one use a file without touching it?
I don`t buy that old wives tale about handling a file as I do it all the time.
Files and hacksaw blades are (to me) expendable tools and when dull they go into the scrap bin. Life is too short to spend an hour doing a 10 minute job and getting a lesser quality finish to boot. Just buy Quality tools and USE THEM !!!
I never oil mine ,just use them and card often. I have no rust problems in my shop.
Don`t throw them in a drawer with other files or you will have dull files in a short time.
Chalk them when you want a fine finish and just plain learn how to use them properly. As you know they only cut on the push stroke. Don`t drag them backwards over the material being worked on.
I keep my best files in shieths made of cardboard and masking tape to protect them. I have probably 40+ files that see regular use.
Bullard4075 wrote:I like to know the why of things.
"They told them there to never use a file used for brass on anything else.......after cutting the brass, the file wouldn't cut steel." Anyone know why?
What does the brass "do" to the file (brass being softer than steel) to make this so?
If the brass "plugs" the teeth of the file couldn't the file be carded clean?
THIS IS ONE OF THE LESSONS IN LIFE BEST LEARNED BY ONESELF. DO REMEMBER, ALL EDJEMACATION IS EXPENSIVE NO MATTER HOW IT IS OBTAINED.
TERRY MURBACH WEREN'T YOU MY HIGH SCHOOL SHOP TEACHER ??
"Any man who covers his face and packs a gun is a legitimate target for any decent citizen"
Jeff Cooper
AJMD429 wrote:Why "NO OIL" on a file? Is it bad for the file, or just not necessary?
I would imagine the oil traps the particles of metal and makes it difficult to clean the file. I would also suspect that's why the advice of not using a file on brass and steel. Perhaps the brass is soft enough that it just mushes deeper into the grooves rather than coming out?
pokey, thanks I'll check those out.
I always heard Mr Murbach taught shop to JMB...
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits.
-Mark Twain
Proverbs 3:5; Philippians 4:13
Got to have a Jones for this
Jones for that
This running with the Joneses boy
Just ain't where it's at
Lots of things thought to be made of brass are really made of Bronze.
Bronze has Silica in it and is very hard on cutting tools. I have some that came out of a WWII victory ship that will just EAT hack saw blades and files for lunch. I have used it to make knife handle parts but it needs to be machined with Carbide tooling.
Files are cutting tools not abrasives. They cut in only one direction and should not be dragged back across the material. Files should not touch each other because files dull files just as diamonds cut diamonds.
The last set of swiss files I bought I purchased from Sears They came in a nylon case with a handle for the set that can be changed back and forth between the files as you use them. I don't think I paid more than $10 for the set. I was quite pleased with the purchase.
If you're gonna be stupid ya gotta be tough-
Isiah 55:8&9
It's easier to fool people than it is to convince them they have been fooled.
Aha! Poking around a 1911 sight, they had a bunch of links for references and resources on rolling your own. Buried in those links was one to Wikipedia dealing with files. Methinks we have a pretty good answer:
In Swiss-pattern files the teeth are cut at a shallower angle, and are graded by number, with a number 1 file being coarser than a number 2, etc.
Just buy Quality tools and USE THEM !!!
