Stack-on safes - anyone have an opinion on them?

Tristan · Post by **Tristan** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:43 am

I see that the local Dick's sporting goods carries a line of stack-on safes; has anyone any experience with them, and how did you like them?

Thanks for any feedback...

- Tristan

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:32 pm

nobearsyet wrote:They're fine for what they are. Just keep in mind they aren't fire reated, and you can pick them up with one hand and carry it off

Plus 1.....They are made so you can mount them from the inside to the wall and floor.....I couldn't pick mine up, but I could sure slide it to the door and use a hand cart on it..... I have the double wide StackOn and a single Homak...the Homak seems a little more solid and better put together.

O.S.O.K. · Post by **O.S.O.K.** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:38 pm

yeah, I have the Homak and bought them because they are a little thicker guage and have some other features like two finger locks. Mine are all bolted together and to the wall - it presents a rather difficult barrier but of course, not like a real safe. But it will slow them down a lot. I also have a security system and cameras. Finally, NRA insurance...

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:49 pm

+ a few more for the "they are what they are".

IMO if you aren't getting a "bank safe", you might as well do what I ded and set up a dead upright freezer as a "safe". Every bit as hard to get into (so long as the lock works &/or you install a hasp), harder to move, much more fire-resistant/water resistant, and doesn't scream "there are guns in here!".

mescalero1 · Post by **mescalero1** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:57 pm

OI,
Thats right clever and practical.

Noah Zark · Post by **Noah Zark** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 1:20 pm

I have a small Stack-On cabinet the size of a backpack with a side-swinging door and keylock. It contains my two subguns.

It is securely fastened to a concrete wall with anchor bolts and heavy, large diameter washers inside. I've got three lengths of Romex 12/2 cable running into the cabinet and up into theoverhead floor joists where they terminate unseen and unconnected, except for one of the cables which is hot, and provide power for a 4 watt "nightlight." That 4 watt lamp makes the steel cabinet warm and prevents moisture condensation in the humid months, a poor-man's "Goldenrod" if you will. Keeps the SMGs from rusting, and if someone does plant a hand on it, they might just accept it for what it appears to be.

I removed the Stack-On logo and applied a home-made self-adhesive label with a different (fake) logo and the words "Uninterrupted Power Supply" (UPS) and a bogus model number, with watts, amps, voltage, Temperature Rise data, UL approval, etc., to the cabinet door. All eyewash.

The "UPS Cabinet" is inside my gun room, itself constructed with concrete block walls with rebar and concrete in the block voids, and a hefty steel security door for personnel access. Burglars might get to the regular stuff if they can defeat the locks and central alarm, but the UPS just might fool them.

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 1:21 pm

Good Idea on the "UPS"...

Mescalero: I don't figure the goblins are that interested in stealing freezer pops...

FWIW, this kind of "safe" also works best with a distraction to back it up... like a REALLY cheap stack-on or some such that has a broken tomato-stake in it, along with a bunch of other useless/broken gun parts & gear. Let 'em spend all their time futzing with the garbage. You may get lucky enough to catch them while they are at it.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:10 pm

I have one. Stamped steel box. I don't keep guns in it. If I ever had to get in it and lost the key, I'd just use a big screwdriver or tire iron.

When we move, I'll get the cheapest, largest safe I can get with a Sargent and Greenleaf dial with a relocker and build a filled cinderblock enclosure around it and over it with a steel exterior, fire-rated door and deadbolts. And then remove all the fireproofing inside the safe.

Safes are not really "safe" until you get into the big bucks and the fire ratings don't compare with a filled cinderblock enclosure.

In my current house I have a $2000 Liberty and had to build the cinderblock enclosure for it 'cause it took me about two seconds to figger I could open the side of that thing with an axe like a can opener. It's got a good lock and paint job though.

mescalero1 · Post by **mescalero1** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:22 pm

Tycer,
For a long time I thought I was the only one that realized that, now try and tell someone the $2000.00 safe he just bought is not very good.
It took an owner to come clean.

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:57 pm

Ok to lock up some ammo in!
Guns? No way! Thats one place do not go to cheap.
Go to Sams Club get one of theirs on sale for $500-$600

BenT · Post by **BenT** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:26 pm

My stackon safe weights around 500lbs.Can't really use a cart to move it around. Stack on makes different grades of safes. Mine has the basic fire rating like all the other entry level fire safes. It holds 36 guns and I don't have any problems with it. Plus the local farm and barn store sold them for about $300 less than any others I could find. I didn't care about fire rating since I'm in a total loss area . Where by the time the Fire Dept. gets here it would be to late to save the house. I was more concerned about theft. I think mine is a stack on Elite. I would buy another one. Of course that won't happen since my wife told me when this one is full, that's enough guns.

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 6:08 pm

Ya,I didnt know Stack-on makes 36 gun 500lb safes.
Now that should do! I thought they were all a lot smaller!

45-70marlin · Post by **45-70marlin** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:30 pm

I have a stack on safe like ben t and have had it about 3 1/2 years with no problems. It is fire rated as the other high dollar ones. I would buy another one.

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:50 pm

Did they steal your refrigerator?

Obfuscation & Concealment beats Obvious & Heavy... though a readily stolen Safe containing a couple of door actuated Claymores wouldn't be a bad idea either...

AJMD429 · Post by **AJMD429** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:58 pm

Old Ironsights wrote:+ a few more for the "they are what they are".

IMO if you aren't getting a "bank safe", you might as well do what I ded and set up a dead upright freezer as a "safe". Every bit as hard to get into (so long as the lock works &/or you install a hasp), harder to move, much more fire-resistant/water resistant, and doesn't scream "there are guns in here!".

Cool idea! Of course I'd bet the smokeless would make a bit of 'fire' inside the thing if the refrigerator were in a house fire though. Don't know if that much powder would damage the guns...?

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:03 pm

Since I put a GoldenRod in it I moved the powder out. Not good for the powder to be kept at 70-80deg...

OTOH, the 1" of fiberglass surrounding everything would make heating the inside to spontaneous combustion temps pretty tough, so without a heat-drier I think it would be pretty safe.

I keep 50# of BP in the (working) chest freezer...

You can usually pick up a non-working Upright Freezer (the refrigerators don't have a lock) for free/Haulage. Or you can join your local "freecycle" junk exchange (freecycle.org). Either way, usually free for the hauling.

Tristan · Post by **Tristan** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:33 pm

OK, tried to post earlier but couldn't, for some reason...

I'm not referring to the metal-locker style cabinets put out by stack-on, but to their 'Total Defense' line, which weigh in the neighborhood of 500-600 lbs, have vault type doors with hardened steel bolts to lock the door.

I appreciate all the feedback, especially the 'thinking outside of the box' type...

All in all, seems like it could be a decent purchase if a person is unwilling to go to a bank vault type.

- Tristan

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:30 am

I kinda like that big locked freezer idea

Dont it get musty though.I know a frigerator unplugged with door closed does.Also what type moisture rod etc could you use to prevent it.? Clever idea if it can keep the guns from rusting!

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:14 am

madman4570 wrote:I kinda like that big locked freezer idea
Dont it get musty though.I know a frigerator unplugged with door closed does.Also what type moisture rod etc could you use to prevent it.? Clever idea if it can keep the guns from rusting!

I bored 3/8" holes in the top-back corners to allow some air circulation and to feed in the Golden Rod power cord. The door seals are good enough that the water would have to get 6' deep in a basement flood before it would start seeping into the "safe"...

Those 2 holes + Goldenrod = No musty-rusty. But I DID have to scrub the thing with baking soda and bleach it out after I tore out the racks. It was pretty nasty when I got it.

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:22 am

Cool!

As my old man would have said, Well now boy thats using your head for somthing besides a hat rack!!!

Good job there Sir and Thanks!

JustaJeepGuy · Post by **JustaJeepGuy** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 2:56 pm

I think OI's "Stack-O-Kitties" poster on the front of his gun freezer is a great camouflage idea, too!

marlinman93 · Post by **marlinman93** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 3:22 pm

I agree with BenT, the Stack On safes are not all the same. The heavier ones are a good safe, and not one you'll get into with a pry bar. I've got a small Stack On with heavy bolts, and std. combo lock, and I don't feel like it's unsafe.
Not sure I'd put them in the same class with my other more expensive safes, but a very good safe for the money.

"IMO if you aren't getting a "bank safe", you might as well do what I ded and set up a dead upright freezer as a "safe". Every bit as hard to get into (so long as the lock works &/or you install a hasp), harder to move, much more fire-resistant/water resistant, and doesn't scream "there are guns in here!".

OI, doesn't that fridge have just two screws to remove the top hinge? I think the Stack On is a bit harder to take the door off of.

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:38 pm

marlinman93 wrote:... OI, doesn't that fridge have just two screws to remove the top hinge? I think the Stack On is a bit harder to take the door off of.

Yes, but that would indicate that the GB knew that there was somthing inside other than freezer pops and last year's venison...

However, it's not hard to make those screws "permenant" either.

Really the Freezer compares, security wise, about equally with the stamped metal Stack Ons, but is fire & waterproof as well. The real Security comes from Obscurity.

Mich Hunter · Post by **Mich Hunter** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:00 pm

I have one. I think its rated for 45 long rifles but I have around 40 in this particular safe and it is FULL. It is a good safe for the money and heavy. Empty I believe it is around 900LBS. Like everyone else around here, I should have bought a bigger one. But, I am active duty and I need something that can be moved when needed. I did free up allot of shelf space by using the holsters that velcro to the existing door carpet. They haven't failed me yet. And yes you will see quite a few EBR's in the pictures, but there are around 11 leverguns and 5 SAA's with another Ruger 357 3 screw and 1893 Marlin on the way

Travis Morgan · Post by **Travis Morgan** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 3:01 am

OI- LOVE the idea. Stack on? A ten year old farm kid could make a mail box out of one in half an hour. Their safes and tool boxes are more of a deterrent than anything. Easy as hell to get into, but it takes time. All they'll do is slow down the thief; if he's a family member, or your house is in the sticks, you're screwed.

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:32 am

Also Consider------Alarming Your Safe
If your house has a burglar alarm, consider having a sensor added to the safe. A friend with a lightweight safe has a simple mercury switch wired inside his safe to detect if the safe has been tipped over. The sensor is wired into his home alarm system as a separate "zone" - one not normally disarmed even when he and his family are at home. Even if they forget to arm the alarm system when they leave the house, if the safe is removed, the alarm goes off.
While on the subject of burglar alarms, consider having an siren added to the room in which you keep your safe. A high-decibel siren makes it almost impossible to think, let alone try to figure out how to break into the safe before the police arrive.

Travis Morgan · Post by **Travis Morgan** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:12 am

Two or three of those idiotic alarms you're supposed to hang on motel room doors would be a nice touch; if the safe even gets jostled, they'll go off, and just ONE is loud as hell; three will not go unnoticed, going down the road!

45-70marlin · Post by **45-70marlin** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:25 am

Old Ironsights, nice idea but dont think your freezer is fire proof. I lost all my guns to a house fire 3 1/2 years ago. I didnt have a safe. A stupid thing to do on my part. I also had a freezer and fridg in the fire. They were twisted piles of junk. The plastic insides will burn and melt, the outer steel will be red hot and will bend or chrush when parts of the house fall on it. The fire was hot enough to melt aluminum. If one can aford it, buy a fire proof safe. for the price of one of two guns you protect them all.

Travis Morgan · Post by **Travis Morgan** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:40 pm

It's still about as good as the Stack-on, a heck of a lot cheaper, and if you have people over, they don't tell others about your having two freezers in the basement. This may not be true of non-gun folks that see even one safe in your basement.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:57 pm

On a safe that does not have bolts that raise up on top, a pry bar in the center of the door will buckle the door far enough to disengage the side bolts. If you have a steel lentil in your surround, it eliminates their ability to pry. As it eliminates their ability to rock the safe off the floor bolts.

Mich Hunter · Post by **Mich Hunter** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:22 pm

Well, I can tell you that a pry bar will not open this safe. I will challenge anyone to try. Now opinions on safes is the same as buying a Ford vs GMC. Everyone has there own flavor that they like. Some also watch too many commercial and drink the kool aid. In the end, you are just paying for a name brand. I have talked to several safe dealers and lock smiths. All say that the quality of the heavy Stack On's is about the same as every other safe in its weight class. A trained locksmith can get into any Cannon, Liberty or Fort Knox safe. If a criminal really wants the contents out of your safe, they will get it with enough time and equipment. A plasma torch will cut any safe. If you fill the a safe with water and then add a charge, it will blow any safe door open. This has been proven countless times. No matter what, it is just buying you time as a deterrent. In the end, no safe is 100% criminal proof. Just make sure you have home owners that covers your guns 100%

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 6:12 pm

45-70marlin wrote:Old Ironsights, nice idea but dont think your freezer is fire proof. I lost all my guns to a house fire 3 1/2 years ago. I didnt have a safe. A stupid thing to do on my part. I also had a freezer and fridg in the fire. They were twisted piles of junk. The plastic insides will burn and melt, the outer steel will be red hot and will bend or chrush when parts of the house fall on it. The fire was hot enough to melt aluminum. If one can aford it, buy a fire proof safe. for the price of one of two guns you protect them all.

Nothing is absolutely "fireproof" in a full-on 100% loss housefire, but it will certainly protect it from more than an unlined bent-sheetmetal low-cost "safe" - which is about all I'm comparing it to. A "Bank Vault" type safe will always be "better", but the difference is about $500-$2000

and I'm not sure a bank-vault type safe is as watertight

.

adirondakjack · Post by **adirondakjack** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:50 pm

If yer threat level says ya need a SAFE, get ya a "real" safe.

If, like me, ya live in a low threat environment and are simply trying to discourage a teenage burglar from walking off with em, then yeah, even the cheap "locker" type are fine. I bolted mine to the closet wall studs with lags, and replaced the closet door with a solid door, also deadbolted. Nobody is gonna spend the time, frankly, unless they "knew" and wanted something specific.

Oh, my overflow safe is an old dry cleaners locker (airtight and heavier than the stack on) I got for $20 at auction.

horsesoldier03 · Post by **horsesoldier03** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:11 pm

Old Ironsights wrote:+ a few more for the "they are what they are".

IMO if you aren't getting a "bank safe", you might as well do what I ded and set up a dead upright freezer as a "safe". Every bit as hard to get into (so long as the lock works &/or you install a hasp), harder to move, much more fire-resistant/water resistant, and doesn't scream "there are guns in here!".

NICE! I think you may have found a way to get your guns past the common burglar! Sure hope he dont see this post. I seriously doubt most burglars would think of trying to force a freezer open especially if another freezer was there that had some meat in it.

Travis Morgan · Post by **Travis Morgan** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:35 am

BTW, dead chest type freezers are good for storing about a ton of horse feed. They'll keep mice out, but bears are another story.

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:04 pm

Old Ironsights wrote:
marlinman93 wrote:... OI, doesn't that fridge have just two screws to remove the top hinge? I think the Stack On is a bit harder to take the door off of.
Yes, but that would indicate that the GB knew that there was somthing inside other than freezer pops and last year's venison...

However, it's not hard to make those screws "permenant" either.

Really the Freezer compares, security wise, about equally with the stamped metal Stack Ons, but is fire & waterproof as well. The real Security comes from Obscurity.

Wouldn't all that plastic in there turn into melted goo if there was a fire? Never tried but I think I could shove a screwdriver thru my freezer. Still looks like a not bad idea. I long ago outgrew my little 8 gun safe & keep them in a locked alarmed room for now.

marlinman93 · Post by **marlinman93** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:16 pm

The thin sheet metal of a refridgerator or freezer would melt outside and then the plastic inside would catch fire about the same time it melted. I have a good friend who's place caught fire and although the car paint was scorched off, it survived and still ran. The freezer (even full of frozen food) melted from the heat and was a blob of melted metal with wet melted food in the middle.

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:47 am

Well, again I only compare the Upright Freezer trick with the low-end stamped sheetmetal "safes". My contention is that rather than shell out money for a low end stamped sheet metal wall locker with a fancy lock, the cheaper and less "I've got Guns in Here" solution is the Freezer.

As mentioned before, the BEST solution is a true Vault surrounded by filled block (then preferably camoflauged as a closet or somthing...).

otteray · Post by **otteray** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:19 pm

Noah Zark wrote:

I removed the Stack-On logo and applied a home-made self-adhesive label with a different (fake) logo and the words "Uninterrupted Power Supply" (UPS) and a bogus model number, with watts, amps, voltage, Temperature Rise data, UL approval, etc., to the cabinet door. All eyewash.

I love it!

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:35 am

Old Ironsights wrote:Well, again I only compare the Upright Freezer trick with the low-end stamped sheetmetal "safes". My contention is that rather than shell out money for a low end stamped sheet metal wall locker with a fancy lock, the cheaper and less "I've got Guns in Here" solution is the Freezer.

As mentioned before, the BEST solution is a true Vault surrounded by filled block (then preferably camoflauged as a closet or somthing...).

I think that the camo aspect of a freezer is good. But I dont buy the contention that they offer the same degree of security if someones trying to get in. My el cheapo stack on has bolts on three sides & a full length hinge. Theres no easy way to start prying & you couldn't poke thru it with hand tools & cut it open with tin snips. Just to see I locked my upright & grabbed the top corner of the door & pulled. I think if I really tried I could fold it over. Granted a hasp at the top & bottom corners would solve that but then it starts looking like theres more than Omaha steaks in it.

I still think its a good idea OI, I'm just pointing out short comings I see in it is all.

Travis Morgan · Post by **Travis Morgan** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:22 am

Old Ironsights,

Love the avatar! Bork, bork, bork!

Tristan · Post by **Tristan** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:05 pm

Mich hunter wrote:I have one. I think its rated for 45 long rifles but I have around 40 in this particular safe and it is FULL. It is a good safe for the money and heavy. Empty I believe it is around 900LBS. Like everyone else around here, I should have bought a bigger one. But, I am active duty and I need something that can be moved when needed. I did free up allot of shelf space by using the holsters that velcro to the existing door carpet. They haven't failed me yet. And yes you will see quite a few EBR's in the pictures, but there are around 11 leverguns and 5 SAA's with another Ruger 357 3 screw and 1893 Marlin on the way

Mich hunter,

Where did you find those velcro holsters?

Tristan