Cimarron Low Wall

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HEAD0001
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Cimarron Low Wall

Post by HEAD0001 »

I have been wanting to buy a Low Wall for a while now. I have been looking for a 44 Magnum in either Winchester or Browning. However I have not had a lot of luck. I have found a few, but the prices were too high.

I found a few Cimarron Low Wall's in stock. However they do not offer it in 44 Magnum. They do have a 44-40, 38-40, and 45 LC.

They also have it in stock in the pistol grip and straight grip design.

I have all the components to cast and load the 44 magnum. But I do not have the items for the calibers I listed above.

The Cimmaron is also available with the double set trigger. However none of them are in stock.

Does anyone have any information on these rifles. As far as trigger quality?? Grade of wood?? Cartridge choice?? Or any other comments?? Thanks, Tom.
Kansas Ed
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Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by Kansas Ed »

I bought one through Buffalo Arms http://www.buffaloarms.com, and love it....but there are a couple of things I had issue with. Mine is in .22 Hornet, and I believe the throat is a little short. As far as the trigger is concerned...it's stuff, but a diamond hone will readily fix that issue. I've never shot one with the double set trigger, as I think it ruins the lines of the rifle the way it's set up. A SST would have been far more appropriate on that rifle. I don't hesitate to recommend them though, especially if you aren't afraid of doing the clean up on the trigger yourself. Mine is very accurate, and when I ordered it I ordered the Marbles tang sight to go along with it. I also ordered a different front sight with a small gold bead for better sight picture. Don't expect American Walnut on the rifle, but the wood quality is just OK, little or no grain. Fit and finish are good. I guess the thing I like best about the rifle is the simplicity, and the mostly traditional look and feel. No lawyered up BS on the rifle. But the caliber is the cats meow. I've got all the deer sized rifles I need, but was lacking in the light varmint/plinking arena. This is the most fun rifle I own....

As for Caliber, I suppose it depends on what you want....I'm a huge fan of the 38-40, but they aren't for everyone. They shoot the same bullet dia. as a 40 S&W, so bullets are easy to come by especially if you are using them in a Single Shot and don't need the cannelure. I don't own a 44-40, though I've looked for years to find the right one and have been unsuccessful. Any of the .22's are worth the money...but you'll get your most power out of the 45LC version when you reload. If I were to buy another one, I think it will be in .22LR though....

Ed

Afterthought: By all means, don't be afraid of the 32-20....I've used that cartridge successfully on everything from groundhogs to mule deer, and a lo-wall will allow you to steam that cartridge up plenty good for deer at up to about 75 yds or so. The 32-20 IMO is the all around pot rifle.
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Shasta
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Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by Shasta »

This will be a very detailed and long-winded reply, but if you can wade through it I hope it will be of some use.

I bought a Cimarron Low Wall in .22 Long Rifle. I wanted a rifle to compete in the long range .22 silhouette matches at the nearby Hat Creek Rifle & Pistol Club. I was very attracted to the Cimarron's octagon barrel, checkered pistol grip stock, and especially the double set triggers.

The rifle that arrived had painfully plain wood, with no figure at all, but the checkering was very well done and the wood-to-metal fit excellent. The barrel sights on it were pretty much useless for my needs, so I replaced them with a Marble's tang rear sight (the rifle was pre-drilled and tapped for a tang sight :D ) and a Lyman 17A front sight.

I discovered the rifle could not be fired using just the front trigger as with most set style triggers. You have to set the rear trigger first. The rear set was much too stiff, requiring some effort to set it. Once set, the front trigger tripped very smooth and clean with just a few ounces of pressure. After installing my new sights, I tried to adjust the set trigger screw, but when I tried it the trigger tripped but the hammer just stayed cocked, despite several attempts.

I decide to take the rifle apart to see what was wrong. Off came the forearm, and when I tried to remove the main spring screw (using a correctly fitting screwdriver bit) the screw refused to budge. An increase in effort caused the too-soft screw to peel away, and I resorted to a needle nose Vicegrip to finally get it out. I got the breechblock out without further trouble, and upon further inspection I found that the problem with the hammer was caused by the front screw from my newly installed tang sight! It was a hair too long and was putting pressure on the sear spring. I removed the front sight screw and filed the length off a couple threads. Fortunately I had a screw to replace the damaged mainspring screw and everything went back together and functioned.

Perhaps I read too much, because for the first time I thought it necessary to "break in" the barrel on a new rifle using the method recommended on the Badger Barrels website. I spent several hours and lots of bore cleaning patches shooting one shot, cleaning, shooting one shot, cleaning, shooting one shot, cleaning, ad nauseam. The rifle threw shots all over the place and I fired well over two dozen times just to get it on a 2 foot paper target at 50 yards. After 50 shots I finally quit the "break-in" foolishness and seemed to start getting better accuracy, but at the 65th shot the rifle quit functioning. The hammer would stop on the half-cock and not fall completely. I was working the action and trying to figure out what was wrong when a piece of metal fell out and bounced off my foot.

I took the rifle home and disassembled it again. The piece of metal turned out to be the "fly", which is used in rifles with set triggers to overide the hammer's half-cock notch. The pin retaining it had backed out and allowed the fly to fall out. I put everything back together and went back out with the rifle the following weekend. Accuracy was indeed getting better, but still not what I expected from a $1,000 rifle. At the 65th shot, the rifle quit again with the fly pin having backed out again.

Back home, I again disassembled the rifle and re-installed the fly. This time I used a very small sharpened chisel to stake the pin in place.

I have had it out three times since the last repair with no further problems. I have fired a total of over 700 shots and accuracy is steadily improving. It appears that it will be capable of hitting a ram silhouette at 200 meters, but like I said before, accuracy is not all that great for what the rifle cost.

I have a number of the Uberti-made replica rifles of different models and a couple revolvers. They all have very good fit and finish, with none of the phoney "safeties" featured on so many of today's reproduction arms, but every one has required some work to get the actions to function smoothly and/or correctly.
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HEAD0001
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Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by HEAD0001 »

From what you two guys have told me, plus some information I have obtained from a couple of other places, I think I am going to hold off on the Cimarron. What I really want is a 1885 Low Wall in 44 magnum from Browning or Winchester. I have found a few in 45 LC, and one in 357 magnum, but I have everything I need to cast and load the 44 magnum. Thank you for your replies. Tom.
3leggedturtle
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Location: north of Palacios about 1400 miles

Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by 3leggedturtle »

Sent you a PM about one
30/30 Winchester: Not accurate enough fer varmints, barely adequate for small deer; BUT In a 10" to 14" barrelled pistol; is good for moose/elk to 200 yards; ground squirrels to 300 metres

250 Savage... its what the 223 wishes it could be...!
HEAD0001
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Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by HEAD0001 »

Did you go there this afternoon?? Did you find anything out about that rifle?? Thanks, Tom.
3leggedturtle
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Location: north of Palacios about 1400 miles

Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by 3leggedturtle »

No. but it was either nickeled or stainless stell and yes it was 44 mag. Hopefully go there thursday now, but in limbo as am sposed to go out again wednesday morning. He is open till 1800 CST
30/30 Winchester: Not accurate enough fer varmints, barely adequate for small deer; BUT In a 10" to 14" barrelled pistol; is good for moose/elk to 200 yards; ground squirrels to 300 metres

250 Savage... its what the 223 wishes it could be...!
HEAD0001
Levergunner 3.0
Posts: 659
Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:59 pm
Location: RIVESVILLE, WV

Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by HEAD0001 »

I appreciate the feed back. However I have never heard of one in SS or Nickel?? I am talking about an 1885 single shot rifle?? Tom.
3leggedturtle
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:34 am
Location: north of Palacios about 1400 miles

Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by 3leggedturtle »

I know what it is,, i know what i saw,, i gave you the number to the shop. Call him and find out
30/30 Winchester: Not accurate enough fer varmints, barely adequate for small deer; BUT In a 10" to 14" barrelled pistol; is good for moose/elk to 200 yards; ground squirrels to 300 metres

250 Savage... its what the 223 wishes it could be...!
txbirdman
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Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by txbirdman »

I've heard some say that a high pressure cartridge shouldn't be chambered in a Low Wall. Maybe that's why you don't see many in .44 Mag. Of course, the High Wall is one of the strongest actions around and was used by Winchester for years for proof loads.
3leggedturtle
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:34 am
Location: north of Palacios about 1400 miles

Re: Cimarron Low Wall

Post by 3leggedturtle »

It was a Winchester Low Wall in 44 Mag Had gorgeous wood and was highly polished and in the white, thats why it looked like SS. He also sold early this week.
30/30 Winchester: Not accurate enough fer varmints, barely adequate for small deer; BUT In a 10" to 14" barrelled pistol; is good for moose/elk to 200 yards; ground squirrels to 300 metres

250 Savage... its what the 223 wishes it could be...!
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