OT - Black Powder and the revolver action?

[Old Savage]

If you use black powder in a Cap and Ball revolver will it get in the action and corrode it?

[gon2shoot]

This is the wrong section, but yes , BP is not a steel friendly powder, hence the frequent cleaning of guns is necessary.

[Old Savage]

By Golly you are right, in the classifieds again; well I know how I did it this time.

Now can it be moved and retain your post?

[Hobie]

Hasn't bothered mine.

[20cows]

I always thought it interesting that all the gun rag articles talked about how easy it was to clean a cap n ball - just separate barrel, frame and cylinder clean and go.

I found powder residue EVERYWHERE inside the lockworks. I cannot imagine this not being a problem down the road.

[Doc Hudson]

Well, let's see now.

I've had my old M-1851 .36 Navy Colt reproduction since the Fall of 1979. That makes almost 29 years. I've probably burned up 20 to 30 pounds of powder during that time. Barrel and cylinder got a good bath after every range session, and the rest of the gun got a squirt or three of Gun Scrubber, Break Free, or WD-40.

I'm reasonably certain that I've not detail stripped and cleaned the innards more than a dozen times, and perhaps not that often. To date, I've suffered a grand total of no parts failures, or breakage.

I do not use blackpowder substitutes, never have, never will as long as I can buy or make my own blackpowder. So I guess powder residue on the lockwork is not a major problem.

[Ysabel Kid]

I haven't shot nearly as much as Doc, but maintain the same practice. The barrel and cylinder gets soaked and scrubbed, but I do not take apart the lockwork. Haven't had a problem yet!

[Griff]

Lets see, I use Goex 3F in my '51s and the same in my '58, the oldest of which I purchased in '86 & '87, the lockwork has been cleaned about once a year; tops. I've never found any corrosion in there. The key to me is keeping lube on the moving parts. I lube the ratchet on the back of the cylinder and the basepin every time I put it together. As long as any fouling is wet, I don't think it'll corrode, letting it dry will.

[Old Savage]

Thanks fellas. I really appreciate your input on this - I shall shoot with confidence.

[AJMD429]

Isn't that why they invented dishwashers...?

[Old Savage]

Final clean up for the M16 in basic training on a couple of problem guns the DI put them in a steaming hot shower.

[morgan in nm]

I do not use blackpowder substitutes, never have, never will as long as I can buy or make my own blackpowder. So I guess powder residue on the lockwork is not a major problem.

Amen to that. I used to have an original 51 colt and have tried pyrodex, clear shot, and a few other substitutes and it is not as accurate as real Goex 3f.

BTW, very little corroding on the lockwork and I think that most of it was due to improper storage.

[Naphtali]

I always thought it interesting that all the gun rag articles talked about how easy it was to clean a cap n ball - just separate barrel, frame and cylinder clean and go.

I found powder residue EVERYWHERE inside the lockworks. I cannot imagine this not being a problem down the road.

That's why we have dishwashers.

[jeepnik]

Isn't that why they invented dishwashers...?

Beat me too it. Just don't tell the wife. Some aren't that understanding.

[Gun Smith]

Black powder in itself is not corrosive. But it absorbs moisture big time, and that's where the corrosion comes from. I clean my C&B revolver every time I use it, as I do ALL my guns. I remove the grips and spray soak the action with WD40 then blow out the residue and respray. I clean the barrel, cylinder, and associated parts normally, then spray with WD40 and blow off the excess. I have no corrosion problems.