Anyone ever use one of these on the forearm of an 1886?

kimwcook · Post by **kimwcook** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 8:04 pm

I've been contemplating putting a sling on my Winnie 86. Has anyone used something like this;

//http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... WIVEL+STUD

on the forearm? I'm a little leary that I'd pull it out if it didn't have a slave bracket backing it up under the forearm. I won't use a quick disconnect stud and have the actual swivel and sling beat the stuff out of my rifle, or worse yet pull out.

Bruce Scott · Post by **Bruce Scott** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 9:03 pm

It may be better to try and find a studded forend nose-cap (probably difficult) or d&t the existing nose-cap for a stud (easier).

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=664961

kimwcook · Post by **kimwcook** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 9:21 pm

I'm afraid of D&T'ing my forend cap. I'm afraid it'll deform with any continuous usage or stress. That's why I'm looking to use a custom swivel stud that doesn't allow the swivel or sling to hit the buttstock or forearm and won't pull out of the forearm.

That prompted the question about the forearm stud. I've read on this forum the good and the bad about forearm studs, either for magazine tubes or otherwise. I don't want to dent my magazine tube, rip out a forearm stud, forearm cap stud or wear the blueing off my barrel with a leather sling loop.

Bruce Scott · Post by **Bruce Scott** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 9:31 pm

Understood. I'm using one of those studs that attach to the mag tube on my Win 94 Legacy. I have it almost touching the wood of the forend and use QD swivels with a Brownells Quick-Set Latigo Sling. The Swivel does not contact the wood of the forend which remains unmarked after more than two years of use. The Brownells Q-S Latigo sling has no hooks or exposed buckles that will contact the stock.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... spx?p=1180

Malamute · Post by **Malamute** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 10:07 pm

You will be OK setting a stud in your fore end cap. I d&t'ed the fore end cap on my Browning 86 rifle and have had no trouble with it. The guy that actually did it used an end mill of the proper size to make a perfectly flat round spot for the stud to seat down on when torqued. The hole and stud seat was indexed to be square with the plane of the rear edge of the cap. (that doesn't sound quite right, but I can't think of exactly how to describe it)The stud should be centered (front to back)in the lower face of the cap. It looks very good.

Marlin uses stamped sheet metal for their fore end caps and they don't have trouble with sling studs in them.

Grizz · Post by **Grizz** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 7:24 am

How about the type that doesn't use metal attachments? A loop for the top end and a butt cuff for the bottom. I remember seeing them around here somewhere.

That way nothing attaches to the gun permanently, and I think they look good too. Whatcha think about that?

Grizz

kimwcook · Post by **kimwcook** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:41 am

WWW.Levergunleather.com has what you're talking about Grizz. But in a post on Levergunluvrs.com there's both good and bad about that type sling too. Some say the loop has taken the bluing off their bbl.'s and some say it didn't. Your choice.

This is the second time I've put this question to the membership here. I want to carry my Win. 86 for hunting and it needs a sling. It's just to dog gone heavy to just carry for any length of time and the terrain too steep. But I don't want to beat it up with the system I choose.

D&Ting the forend cap sounds like a viable option. I'm just a little concerned about pulling the stud from the cap. The metal the cap is made out of is pretty thin and I want to do this right the first time. Maybe D&T the cap and high temp silver solder the stud to the cap. Of course I'd have to reblue the cap and stud but big deal. That might just work. Just throwing out ideas.