Broken Cylinder Stop....

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AJMD429
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Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by AJMD429 »

...on an Astra 44 Mag DA revolver.

A friend got it cheap.. looks like it set in a holster or under a truck seat and got tons of surface rust but bore and hand and everything I see points to few rounds shot.

But the cylinder stop is broken off. It rises enough that the stub scratches the cylinder but the gun could fire out of alignment.

So I have to see if I can find, repair, or make one.

But . . . . why and how would one break...?

Overall I think the gun is in good mechanical shape though.
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jeepnik
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by jeepnik »

Llama Comanche part may fit.
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by Jay Bird »

Doc...foreign junk is foreign junk and always will be foreign junk. The previous owner was probably using it to patch a hole in the floorboard.......but you knew that. :D ---6
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GunnyMack
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by GunnyMack »

Why did it break? It's an ASTRA! Not high quality by any means. Heck it could have broken by itself with normal shooting.
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by Rusty »

Try Brownell's or Gun parts Corp. If Brownell's doesn't have it they'll usually be able to tell you who does.
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AJMD429
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by AJMD429 »

Numrich didn't have one for Astra or Llama.
Maybe S&W ones would gun or be fittable...looks like a clone.

It is a really nice kid's first handgun so I'm hoping to help him out, even though it isn't a great gun.

I was lucky enough as a kid to talk my mom into a Super Blackhawk for my 16th birthday...
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jeepnik
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by jeepnik »

I carried a Comanche daily for two years. Since I was living with the threat from the ETA, I sure as heck bet my life on it.
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Pete44ru
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by Pete44ru »

.

FWIW, some Spanish guns, especially early ones, had spotty or no heat-treating of the small parts - so it's most likely just worn beyond engagement with the cylinder notches.

Since the old/worn/broken stop is available, I would suggest a repair via building the tip up with weld & dressing it down to fit/time - before hardening (natch :mrgreen: ).


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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by piller »

Building the part up with welding before careful file work to fit it properly does sound like it would work. Heat treatment is not too difficult. Used motor oil is a decent quench medium, and the synthetic type is less prone to fires than the regular oil. Keep a metal lid handy to smother any fire. Heavy mineral oil also makes a good quench medium. Water or salt water does not work so good. The heat causes the water to vaporize and often gives uneven hardness and fracturing of the material.

If you choose to harden it yourself, I recommend heating it someplace not in direct sunlight so that you can observe the color changes. I look for a bright reddish orange which becomes non-magnetic when tested. Do not overheat it or you will ruin it. Just go to where it is no longer magnetic. Then quench immediately. Give it about 15 seconds. It does not need to be precise. Next wipe the still hot part with a rag and bake it at 400 degrees for 1 hour to draw out any residual stresses in the metal. Wiping is to remove most of the oil. If you do not do this step, it will smoke up your Wife's oven and make it stink. That affects the taste of your food, and can even cause rolling pins to be bounced off your scalp. After an hour, turn the oven off and just let it cool down. Once cool enough to handle, the part should be hard enough that a file just slides across it without removing any metal. At that point, you can do the final shaping and fitting with a diamond knife sharpener.

The above is how I make and heat treat knives I make from older car leaf springs. I am not a knifemaker. I am a hobbyist. If WVFarrier comes along and offers better advice, take it.
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by 3leggedturtle »

Piller, thanks for a great explanation in plain terms that i can understand.... Do you know what they used b4 motor oil to heat treat knives?

Doc, hope you get it fixed for him.... todd /3leg
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wm
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by wm »

darn, that's a tough one. I just saw a complete pistol for sale locally for $550. I know that does not help but …….

I think what I would do in his situation is just resolve to search GunBroker ever other day to see if one turns up. His best hope in the long run is to cruise the "Gun Parts Kits" and see if he can find a complete firearm less receiver and just set back the remaining parts to support his working firearm.

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piller
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Re: Broken Cylinder Stop....

Post by piller »

3leggedturtle wrote: Sun Oct 20, 2019 2:10 pm Piller, thanks for a great explanation in plain terms that i can understand.... Do you know what they used b4 motor oil to heat treat knives?

Doc, hope you get it fixed for him.... todd /3leg
Oil of any kind would work. Fat and grease saved from cooking is workable and was in common use during the middle ages. I prefer to warm my quench oil before using it. I get fewer cracks in the steel when I do. Saltwater has been used. It may lead to stress fractures in the steel.
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Quid Llatine Dictum Sit, Altum Viditur.
Advanced is being able to do the basics while your leg is on fire---Bill Jeans
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