Might have a line on a Win 64 30-30. ?

[Tycer]

What were the last serial numbers of the non-1970s reissue? Other than the normal things to look for anything unique? $400 fair for shooter grade ? $500?

[Griff]

For a genuine mdl 64, that's probably a little light on money side. Condition, condition, condition! I believe the last ones're down in the 1.5 million range.

[Sixgun]

For a genuine mdl 64, that's probably a little light on money side. Condition, condition, condition! I believe the last ones're down in the 1.5 million range.

I agree.......standard or "deer rifle"?

[OldWin]

Around here, that's pretty cheap for a decent 64, even a standard rifle (pre 64).
I've got three. Two standard rifles and a 20" version that's also a standard. I gave more for the shorty but that's about what I paid for the two standard 24" ones. Both are in about 85%.
It will matter some if it's pre war or not also.

[Pete44ru]

What were the last serial numbers of the non-1970s reissue ?

IDK, but IIRC most were serial numbered along with regular Model 94 production.

.

[Hawkins]

I have a model 64 standard carbine that was made sometime during or just after WWII. Serial number is in the range where references show there are no records, but it was sometime between 1942 and 1948. The finish is very rough, but the insides looked like new when I got it--bore is perfect, and there was very little wear on any of the internals. I paid $300 for it a few years ago. Given the exterior condition, not sure if that was a good or bad price, but I love the gun--very accurate, and to me handles even better than a standard '94.

[OldWin]

IMO, if it works and shoots, it was worth 300 bucks.

[Griff]

IMO, if it works and shoots, it was worth 300 bucks.

+1.

[Hawkins]

Agreed. And, since it looked ratty on the outside, I didn't feel bad about messing with the forend bedding a little. The wood had dried and warped a bit over the years, and was putting some pressure in places it shouldn't. Now, it's very accurate with cheap Federal 170's.

Back to the original question--sounds like $400 - $500 would be a good price on even a standard rifle in good condition inside and out.

Here are a couple of links that might help with dating a particular gun:

Open the PDF and it shows fairly complete records for lots of models: http://www.winchesterguns.com/support/f ... rearm.html

Lets you type in a specific serial number: http://oldguns.net/sn_php/winmods.htm

The 64's were numbered with the 94's, and the last ones were made in 1957, I think. So the highest serial numbers on originals should be around 2,290,000. The reissues were in the early 1970's, so they would be in the 3,000,000 range, if I'm reading the above links correctly. Also, the model 64's have the same differences between pre-and post-1964 as the model 94's, so you can always tell that way.

Hawkins

[Tycer]

It's a very clean deluxe with four extra holes on the right side

[Sixgun]

Very clean? Nice? Deluxe?....5-7....5 for post war...7 for pre war.....you mean "left side" don't ya Tycer? As your holding the gun looking down----6

[Tycer]

Very clean? Nice? Deluxe?....5-7....5 for post war...7 for pre war.....you mean "left side" don't ya Tycer? As your holding the gun looking down----6

No. I meant right side. The snake bite is on the left and no extra holes.

[Tycer]

[Tycer]

Serial 1,375,xxx

[pokey]

Looks like a lefty owned her once.
The reissues were marked 64a.

[Sixgun]

In over 40 years of messing with these old Winchesters, that is the FIRST rifle I have even seen d & t ed on the right side. Nice rifle but dang, it's like a playboy model with her nose cut off.

I think I'd rather have a Corvette with a dent in the rear instead of the front end.

If you can get it cheap enough, it would pay to strip the entire gun down, barrel and all, with just the receiver, have the holes welded up and professionally reblued and you would have a $1500 rifle.

It would only involve the bare receiver, no other parts, and with you doing the work, except for the welding and bluing, I can't see it costing more than 2-3 c notes.---6

[Griff]

In over 40 years of messing with these old Winchesters, that is the FIRST rifle I have even seen d & t ed on the right side. Nice rifle but dang, it's like a playboy model with her nose cut off.

I think I'd rather have a Corvette with a dent in the rear instead of the front end.

If you can get it cheap enough, it would pay to strip the entire gun down, barrel and all, with just the receiver, have the holes welded up and professionally reblued and you would have a $1500 rifle.

It would only involve the bare receiver, no other parts, and with you doing the work, except for the welding and bluing, I can't see it costing more than 2-3 c notes.---6

Yep!

[Daisyman]

What they said........a beautiful rifle. What a shame on the holes, but it still presents well. Even if you put filler screws in it judiciously done, it would still look nice!

Irv

[geobru]

In over 40 years of messing with these old Winchesters, that is the FIRST rifle I have even seen d & t ed on the right side. Nice rifle but dang, it's like a playboy model with her nose cut off.
---6

Beautiful rifle, but you need to plug those nose holes that Six mentioned!

I have never seen a 64 deluxe in that kind of condition, and a deluxe without extra holes was 1200 here, about 5 years ago! I paid 6 bills for a standard rifle in 32 Spl in 2012. It is one of my favorite rifles to shoot. A tack driver with a 3 1/2 pound trigger.

[Griff]

Actually Tycer, now that I've had a nite to think on it... That might be unrepairable... Let me take that off your hands, I'll cover the cost of shipping and... oh... I so hate to think of a friend getting took, I'll replace your $300.

Seriously, find yourself a good welder type... a TIG welder that can work with hardened wire... fill the four holes. Then carefully file to flush and repolish the receiver... you'll have some slight discoloration around each hole, the holes appear as tho they are in the boss above the guide rails, are they? If so, even mo' betta! The welding "MIGHT" run you a "C" note. Then, since you have the rifle completely stripped, take the receiver, lever, link, lower tang, and forend cap, and buff 'em out... to bright metal. Oil 'em up and ship them to Turnbull and have the lot color case hardened! Last I checked, if you do all the labor, it runs $200 to get a "rifle" lot of parts CCH'd. Now for a measly $600 you have a one of a kind beautiful rifle, that should become the envy of every one here on the forum and of your acquaintance. Maybe far beyond!

Here's a pic of my mdl 94 that I did, (tho' on this one I didn't get the lever and other parts done, just the receiver).


The reason I suggest CCH is that it will cover up the slight difference in metal where it was welded better than bluing will.

[Grizz]

of course there's the grizzway

jbweld and dowels and leather dye, a three dollar repair and invisible to everyone but this forum.



I concur with the comment about a leftys gun

[Sixgun]

Grizz....Ha! I've done that and I'll tell ya what else works......put in a set screw and keep it about 1/16" above the surface. Flat sand it and reblue. If you do it real good and take your time, you will only see a very faint line where the screw is.----6

[Tycer]

I'm going to give him $150 and late 1970s 94 3030

[Sixgun]

Tycer,
Go for it!---6

[geobru]

Tycer,
If you have a face to face transfer, try not to smile too broadly when you take possession!
George

[Tycer]

Grizz....Ha! I've done that and I'll tell ya what else works......put in a set screw and keep it about 1/16" above the surface. Flat sand it and reblue. If you do it real good and take your time, you will only see a very faint line where the screw is.----6

This