Tru Glow Sites on a Win 94
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Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
Tru Glow Sites on a Win 94
Has anybody used the Tru Glow sites on a 1975 model Win 94? I've drifted the front sight over to the right to where it is rubbing the the hood to get it on target at 30 yards. I spotted these sites at Midway and wonder if they would be a good replacement for the factory sites. Basically, I'm looking for a set of sites to replace what I have that are a little more adjustable with no smith work that even I can install. Oh, my eyes a little old and if you suggest something else, I'm all ears. Thanks.
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Ysabel Kid
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NonPCnraRN
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A Williams or Lyman receiver sight should help along with a Tru Glow or Firesight front sight. These 56 y/o eyes can't focus on factory equipment sights and all levers get receiver sights. If you have trouble focusing on the front sight, B. Jones Sights makes and optical insert that fits in a receiver sight (like a contact lense) aperature that will bring it into focus. I saw 2 front sights till he fixed me up. I just unscrew it and move it from receiver sight to receiver sight. The lenses come in different powers just like reading glasses and you can't tell the lense is in place unless you are looking through the aperature.
#1 - Welcome to the fire, tkcomer!
#2 - Take off the sight hood and toss it !
#3 - What rear sight adjustments have you made, if any ?
I use fiber-optic iron sights on most of my rifles - since back when they were "cutting edge" - and never had a problem with sighting-in.
They don't give a wider range of adjustment than your issue sights do, but they are easier to see/pickup.
A receiver or tang peep sight, as referred to above, would give a wider range of adjustments than the open sights do.
#2 - Take off the sight hood and toss it !
#3 - What rear sight adjustments have you made, if any ?
I use fiber-optic iron sights on most of my rifles - since back when they were "cutting edge" - and never had a problem with sighting-in.
They don't give a wider range of adjustment than your issue sights do, but they are easier to see/pickup.
A receiver or tang peep sight, as referred to above, would give a wider range of adjustments than the open sights do.
My problem is with the rear site. That's getting fuzzy. Even with these glasses I got a couple of years ago. It's hard to tell where that front site is in the "V". I spotted these sights and thought they may be a good thing. I only plink with my guns. But I still like to shoot a good group. I've heard of the Williams sights, I just thought you had to drill and tap for them.
{click on the links, below}
Williams makes fiber-optic front beads in various heights, and also a long-leaf type fiber-optic rear sight that is a direct swap for whatever's in the rear dovetail of your barrel now.
http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/rifle.htm
They also make them in sets, to fit some (but not all) specific rifles.
http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/image_d.htm
In addition, they also market sets consisting of the proper height fiber-optic front blade with a receiver peep.
http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/image33.htm
Williams makes fiber-optic front beads in various heights, and also a long-leaf type fiber-optic rear sight that is a direct swap for whatever's in the rear dovetail of your barrel now.
http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/rifle.htm
They also make them in sets, to fit some (but not all) specific rifles.
http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/image_d.htm
In addition, they also market sets consisting of the proper height fiber-optic front blade with a receiver peep.
http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/image33.htm
Oops. You posted before I did. I've made no adjustments to the rear sight. Just drifted the front over. It's pretty much dead on height wise. So you think all I need is the front sight? I've never thought about a tang sight. I'll be honest, I'm horrible shooting off hand. I've leaned on something for years. Bench, tree, fence post, you get the idea. But I'm trying to learn again. I have a Puma in 357 and I'm slowly getting back in shape with it. Still not that good, but the gun shoots great off of a bench with my reloads. But I like the sights better on it. The rear "V" is what's causing me problems with this gun.
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J Miller
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tkcomer,
Welcome to the forum.
Regardless of what type of front sight you use, center that sight in the ramp, then use the rear sight to adjust your windage.
The rear sight will correct more with less objectionable offset than the front sight.
My method of sighting a Win 94 with open factory sights, and I've had a bunch of them, is to center the front bead in the bottom of the "U" in the rear sight. Then put the target on top of the bead.
I've had very good results with this sight picture. I simply cannot shoot accurately by covering the target with the bead. To me that's just wrong.
You can't hit what you can't see is the way I've been trained.
If all you have is a rear sight that's bent up at the rear with a broad "V" then part of your rear sight is missing. There should be a movable blade with two itsy tinsy screws holding it to the vertical part of the rear sight body. It should look like the one in this pic:
No matter what kind of front sight you use, you will still have to contend with the rear sight. This makes it a three point focus and older eyes just can't do that well.
Replacing the original rear sight with a Williams FP or a Lyman 66A is the best way to go.
Then you have only two focus points. The front sight and the target.
You DO NOT look at the aperture of the rear sight, you look through it.
And don't toss that front sight hood. Take it off if you want, but put it somewhere safe. That way if you ever get rid of the rifle it will be complete. There is nothing more irritating that trying to find a front sight hood or a saddle ring after some guy who "hates" them just yanks them off and tosses them.
Guns when treated right will outlive us by a long shot. And many folks like to buy complete guns. I'm in that bunch.
Joe
Welcome to the forum.
Regardless of what type of front sight you use, center that sight in the ramp, then use the rear sight to adjust your windage.
The rear sight will correct more with less objectionable offset than the front sight.
My method of sighting a Win 94 with open factory sights, and I've had a bunch of them, is to center the front bead in the bottom of the "U" in the rear sight. Then put the target on top of the bead.
I've had very good results with this sight picture. I simply cannot shoot accurately by covering the target with the bead. To me that's just wrong.
You can't hit what you can't see is the way I've been trained.
If all you have is a rear sight that's bent up at the rear with a broad "V" then part of your rear sight is missing. There should be a movable blade with two itsy tinsy screws holding it to the vertical part of the rear sight body. It should look like the one in this pic:
No matter what kind of front sight you use, you will still have to contend with the rear sight. This makes it a three point focus and older eyes just can't do that well.
Replacing the original rear sight with a Williams FP or a Lyman 66A is the best way to go.
Then you have only two focus points. The front sight and the target.
You DO NOT look at the aperture of the rear sight, you look through it.
And don't toss that front sight hood. Take it off if you want, but put it somewhere safe. That way if you ever get rid of the rifle it will be complete. There is nothing more irritating that trying to find a front sight hood or a saddle ring after some guy who "hates" them just yanks them off and tosses them.
Guns when treated right will outlive us by a long shot. And many folks like to buy complete guns. I'm in that bunch.
Joe
After you center the front sight, but B 4 U start adjusting the rear - try & see if highlighting the rear sight notch helps your sight alignment - then adjust the rear for windage.
The rear sighting notch can be "highlighted" in a couple of different (cheap) ways. Both require an extremely thin, artist's small paintbrush with almost no bristles, and some white or gold paint.
The rear sight notch can be edged with a thin white or gold line that's the same "U" shape as the notch;
or -
a single, vertical, white or gold line can be painted from the bottom of the notch, straight down to the bottom of the sight, near where it sits on the barrel.
The rear sighting notch can be "highlighted" in a couple of different (cheap) ways. Both require an extremely thin, artist's small paintbrush with almost no bristles, and some white or gold paint.
The rear sight notch can be edged with a thin white or gold line that's the same "U" shape as the notch;
or -
a single, vertical, white or gold line can be painted from the bottom of the notch, straight down to the bottom of the sight, near where it sits on the barrel.
When I first shot the gun, it shot so far to the right I thought the rear sight would never adjust that far. That's why I drifted the front. I was going to drift it back over a little and adjust on the rear, but I'm out of lead. The bullets I've ordered are on backorder. So... I got to poking around on the web to see what was available without drilling and tapping and spotted the Tru Glow. I thought I'd just stick the front sight in and see how that did, but didn't know if it would be the right height or if the hood would cause a problem. I shoot out of a shop for noise reduction as the neighbor across the road has a baby now. At certain times of the day, that creates a bit of a problem with my eyes. Inside, shooting out, with the bright sunlight makes seeing a good sight picture a problem.