Model 94 windage

[tmaurer]

I need some advice. My Model 94 needs a windage adjustment. I'm hitting 3 inches to the right at 25 yards. As the distance increases, you can imagine where it's hitting. I did a little reading and it seems I can simply just "tap" the rear sight over a bit. But this to me seems like an exercise in gentleness, fuss and trial and error. I'm willing to give it a go. But do you all think it would just be wiser to mount a peep sight on it? I see decent peep sights for around $80.

I'm just wondering what to do. I would eventually like to hunt deer or coyote with this rifle.

[earlmck]

Ouch! 3" at 25 yards is quite a lot out of alignment. Do both front and rear sights appear centered? You can choose to tap the rear sight a bit left, or the front sight a bit right, or a little of both so one doesn't look really "off center".

Now I would already have put a peep sight on there, but that's because I'm one of the "old guys" who can't see an open sight anymore. If you see that open sight OK and would prefer it to the peep, than go ahead and do the tapping. But use a brass punch and don't be surprised if it takes a firmer "whack" than you expected it would to get the sight to move -- some of them can be very stubborn and some move almost too easy.

[EdinCT]

What Earl said, and I put a line on the sight to the barrel with a SHARP pencil for reference. I never regreted a peep on mine and with my eyesight its a need.

[K1500]

Make sure the front sight is centered. Tap the rear with a brass punch. It is a bit of trial and error but I have never needed more than a couple of adjustments to get any of mine zeroed. It isn't hard at all. I put a piece of masking tape on the barrel and the sight and mark them with a pencil tic so I can visually tell how much I have moved the sight. Move the sight a bit and shoot it. If you are not zeroed, you can look at the target and see how much you moved the group and how much more you need to go. Then look at the tape marks and move as much as you need.

[Dave]

If you will take a magic marker and mark with just a dot where the point of the front sight base is on the barrel before you begin for reference you won't have any problem. Just put a drop of oil in the rear sight dovetail between the barrel and bottom of the sight base before you start. Be sure to have a brass or plastic punch so you don't mar the gun. Moving the rear sight a distance that is equal to the thickness of a paper match is a lot of adjustment.

A peep sight is always better but you can do some good shooting with open sights too if your eyes are young enough.

[BenT]

Make sure to support the front ramp with a piece of wood before tapping on the front sight.

[Griff]

Or... buy a sight pusher.

[Chuck 100 yd]

That is A LOT!! If your sights are centered, I would suspect the barrel is bent.

[Griff]

That is A LOT!! If your sights are centered, I would suspect the barrel is bent.

If this formula is accurate, not so much.
A = lateral difference between a vertical line drawn thru the bullseye and a parallel vertical line drawn thru your group.
B = 900 (¼ of 3600 radians @ 100 yds)
C = distance between front & rear sights

A/B*C = distance to move sight.

So, assuming a Winc 94 20" carbine has 18-¼" between the sights; 3/900*18.25 = .0608" of sight movement, slightly less than a 16th of an inch (.0625").

[AJMD429]

But do you all think it would just be wiser to mount a peep sight on it?

Absolutely - see my 'thread' [link --->] on "Various Aperture Sights"

My preference:

• 24" octagonal leverguns - Taurus 'Tang' sight ($29 clone of Marble's) - looks 'vintage', and very accurate. Adjustments not 'calibrated', and sights more delicate and 'slower' to use, but those guns are ones I generally shoot more for 'target shooting' anyway.
  
  20" normal-length leverguns (for 'pistol' cartridges) - Williams FP sights - click-adjustable, repeatable, and precise (I think at 100 yards something like 5 clicks per inch), and can be 'ghost ringed' for use in dim light or for fast/running shots. Sights are very compact and durable.
  
  16" 'shorty' leverguns - Marble's "Bullseye" sights - they go on the barrel in the rear-sight dovetails, and if you view my thread above, you will see what they look like in use - a clear 'outer' ring that enables FAST action, and a fuzzier 'inner' ring that an extra second of aiming will enable more precise shooting. They LOOK 'fragile' and like they stick out too far, but they are NOT fragile, and stick out barely more than a 'full buckhorn' sight. I am convinced there is no 'faster' sight, plus this one allows the precision 'option' if one takes the extra second to use the inner (vs. outer) ring.

Now my 'ultimate sight' would be a Williams FP with the 'aperture' replaced by the Marble's Bullseye...
It would have the ultimate adjustability/repeatability/precision, combined with the ultimate in FAST yet take-one-more-second-and-shoot-precisely aperture designs.
Check out the thread I linked to above...!

[Gobblerforge]

You might want to take a look at the crown, also. A burr or uneven wear pattern is what I would look for.
Gobbler

[tmaurer]

Thanks everyone for the info. Just getting caught up after the Christmas thing. I'll pick up some punches and fix the immediate issue. But in the end I'll probably mount peep sights on it