Fighting knives?

.Dirty-.Thirty · Post by **.Dirty-.Thirty** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 11:33 pm

Never owned or handled a "fighting knife", like a military issued design, but have a sudden interest in them and have been looking over the auctions. So many different makes and models to choose from, not sure what to get. I am not caring whether it is new or vintage, but I do like the bright blade knives, not the black blades but perhaps that is just because I never owned one. Don't plan on really doing any fighting with it, just like to handle my hunting knives and look 'em over and pass em around to friends to look at while around the campfire. Do any of you guys have any to post a picture of or recommend one over the other or just a story to tell? Thanks... .DT

Mescalero · Post by **Mescalero** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 11:56 pm

Cold Steel,
OSI

.Dirty-.Thirty · Post by **.Dirty-.Thirty** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:05 am

Looking at some Ontario brand too Mescalero... Anybody handle any of their knives?

Mescalero · Post by **Mescalero** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:22 am

Look up The American Bladesmiths Society for the discription of a proper Bowie fighting Knife.
They will tell you that a proper Bowie must be capable of cutting on the backstroke.
The Cold Steel OSI has that almost finished for you, all you have to do is complete what they have started.
It is unlawfull to possess a double edged blade in many places in the U.S.
I don't know about today, but when I was young; Texas and Louisiana had laws that stipulated that it was illegal to kill a man with a Bowie knife.
The powers to be considered them to be "unfair" advantage.

Buck Elliott · Post by **Buck Elliott** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:55 am

If it came down to it, I'd feel well-armed with a Cold Steel TrailMaster Bowie (9-1/2" blade..), or one of my Recon Scouts (7-1/2"..) All of them have a sharpened 'false edge', for cutting on the back-stroke.. They're heavy knives, ground from 5/16" stock, and are a mite larger than ideal for a "hunting" knife, but fall more towards the camp/utility classification, with plenty of heft for fighting knives..

Years ago, I had a Ralph Bone fighter, that was perfectly balanced and set up as a fighter.. Razor sharp and finely finished, it was a joy to have at hand.. Unfortunately, someone else decided he wanted it more than I needed it, and it 'disappeared' from my shop one summer, when I was in the mountains...

Mescalero · Post by **Mescalero** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 1:00 am

Buck,
I have both of those Cold Steels.
Thank you for acknowledging "the back stroke"
Any man who would do that to you is not a man of honor.

Ravenman · Post by **Ravenman** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:10 am

@Mescalero
In a knife fight is no place for honor. Win or loose - and stay away from the other knife as far as you can. Distance is the key. Take a knife with the longest blade you can handle well. I would prefer something like the Trailmaster or Laredo Bowie, a tanto style knife with at least 7 1/2" or a kukri.

octagon · Post by **octagon** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 5:16 am

Gerber Applegate Combat Folder. Have carried this for years as a primary, and often carry others as well. It is big and after 8 years locks up tight with no play.

firefuzz · Post by **firefuzz** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 7:38 am

Ravenman wrote:@Mescalero
In a knife fight is no place for honor. Win or loose - and stay away from the other knife as far as you can. Distance is the key. Take a knife with the longest blade you can handle well. I would prefer something like the Trailmaster or Laredo Bowie, a tanto style knife with at least 7 1/2" or a kukri.

I like your view on knife fighting and your mention of the kukri, not a pretty knife but very effective for taking off limbs....both off trees and people. I own a couple of more traditional kurkis, but my favorite field carry one is a Cold Steel LTC. Although it's thinner and lighter than the traditional models it's light, sharp, and has an excellent grip/handle.

Firstly let me say that I have no intention of getting into another knife fight, one was plenty to convince me I'm not fond of them. I was mugged and he had his knife out when the fight started, the only thing I had was a folding pocket knife that there was ABSOLUTELY no time to get to. He was too close to try to turn and run or I would have believe me. I was very lucky, he wasn't a knife fighter just a guy with a knife, I and only got nicked a few times, for a total of 9 stitches, before he screwed up and let me catch his arm. I was too scared to do anything but keep hitting him until he went down. Just remember this: the difference in a gun fight and a knife fight at belt buckle distances is that you can grab a gun and maybe not get shot....it's hard to grab a knife and not get cut. Lesson learned....I don't carry my knife stuck down deep in my pocket anymore and I learned a lot more about using a knife for things other than peeling apples and cutting string. Best to avoid the situation if at all possible.

My definition of a fighting knife: Any knife I can get my hands on in a fight, usually carried by me. I only buy commercially made knifes but I'm pretty picky about what I carry, even as a pocket knife.

A ridged-blade, non-folding, fighting knife generally falls into one of three categories:

1. A sticker with a long, usually double edged, with the point pretty much running straight thru the tang of the grip or handle. The old Gerber #2 is a good example.

2. A slasher with a long blade with a up-swept point and sharpened clip-point style front end. The center line of the tang usually runs closer to the top of the blade, not the center. The Case/Carlson Raider bowie is a good example. Most true Bowie-style knifes come with a large double guard, extends from both the top and bottom.

3. A combo with features of both of the above, probably the best choice. A Randall No.1 or Blackjack #1-7 are good examples.

A tanto is neither fish nor fowl but is not a bad design for a fighting knife. The blade shape was not originally intended as such but was used primarily as a fisherman's knife to slit open and gut eels with. Still works well and I own a couple. The Cold Steel tantos are excellent examples, good knifes too.

I've got a Cold Steel Laredo bowie, almost a short sword, as with all Cold Steel knives it's razor sharp from the factory. The coffin handle was just a little too large for my small/medium hands, but it was easily reshaped and refinished. Well made, good steel, and a good representation of the "old school" Bowie or Arkansas toothpick fighting knife.

A very good choice, IMHO, for a belt or harness carried fighting knife is the Randall No. 1 or the cheaper but still well made copy, a Blackjack #1-7. Both come with different handle materials, be careful not to chose one that will be slick in sweaty or bloody hands. I'm really impressed with the Blackjack knives. You can buy one for about 1/4, or less, of the cost of their parent Randall models and still have a well made, functional knife. Scary sharp from the factory.

If you're wanting to seriously carry a fixed blade"fighting" knife I'd look closer to one of the shorter, 7" or less, bladed, flatter profile tantos or something similar. A knife that gets overlooked but I think as a serious fighting knife is the Benchmade Nimravus. Decent blade length, very light, very flat profile, moves in your hand like a dream, and sharper than Hades from the factory. IMHO, these are a step up from a folding fighter and still easy to carry and conceal in a custom sheath. Most of the time I leave the house I have one of mine on me somewhere.

Whatever you pick get a knife with full-tang construction and at least a minimal guard on any side of the grip that the blade is sharp on. Full tang for strength, and the guard to prevent your hand from sliding up on the cutting edge of your own blade.

Rob

BTW, did I mention I REALLY like knives?

Marlin32 · Post by **Marlin32** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 10:01 am

I liike the Ka-Bar's, just rugged, well built tough knives.
THere is another one I saw somewhere and cannot remember the name, but was labeled a fighting knife, kind of a hybrid, had a somewhat curved blade, but still somewhat straight, without searching for it, I think Hisshou, or hissouri something like that.
SImilar to the Laredo Bowie type blade, just thinner I think.

Ravenman · Post by **Ravenman** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 10:29 am

So many great knives out there that you can use as a fighting knife. What about an american made blade? I have this knife and all Snake Blocker said makes sens for me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1LK98R0pRk

JReed · Post by **JReed** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:46 am

Always gring a gun to a knife fight. But if it had to be a blade K-bar would be my choice.

jeepnik · Post by **jeepnik** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:56 am

Since no price was mentioned, and it's primarily for non-fighting, go with the Rolls Royce of knives.

http://www.randallknives.com/

tman · Post by **tman** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:05 pm

The old BUCK survival bowie. HEAVY knife, built like tank, holds an edge. They don't make them anymore, but show up on EBAY now and then.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:19 pm

A K-Bar has few equals... but I couldn't afford one, so I got a BlackJack #7. A knife fight is NOT the type of thing you want OJT on.

Grizzly Adams · Post by **Grizzly Adams** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:31 pm

.Dirty-.Thirty wrote:Never owned or handled a "fighting knife", like a military issued design, but have a sudden interest in them and have been looking over the auctions.

I favor actual military issue knives, just because I enjoy the history. That said, they are, IMHO, some of the finest fighting knives ever created, and history seems to support that statement.

Two of my favorites are the "K Bar" which was supplied by a number of contractors. I would recommend looking for a nice original USN Mark2. The K Bar is of course still in production, and the price is much less than vintage example. Be careful about paying big bucks for a vintage blade you are not certain of, as these are easy to fake. Do your homework!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Edged-Weapons-/ ... SRCHX:SRCH

Another fine military "fighting knife" is the Cattaraugus 225Q - sometimes called a quarter masters knife.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Edged-Weapons-/ ... SRCHX:SRCH

Good information and pics can be found here: http://www.militaryfightingknives.com/collection.html

Good luck!

RKrodle · Post by **RKrodle** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:58 pm

I bought my son a Cold Steel R1 Military Classic for Christmas this year. It's a fine looking knife.

wm · Post by wm » Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:49 pm

My two personal favorites lack the shiny blade you prefer but for what it is worth the Cold Steel SRK knife and the Kellam Ranger ( http://www.kellamknives.com/index.php?m ... ord=ranger ) would be my suggestions for the best value for the dollars.

You might look around for a Randall knife.....sounds like what you are looking for and they seem to be good investments. They don't seem to go down in value.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:57 pm

Ricky, that style is a classic Randall #1-7, as is my Blackjack #7

I had one of the Randall's in the Navy... but my gear got picked over when I left that unit... so I bought one of the BlackJack's.

I will tell ya, that the Randall is the knife I was trained to use... and does a fine job... I'll tell ya that story sometime...

But you're buying the beer. The Blackjack has a carbon steel blade... which I prefer over stainless on a fighting knife. I'd have a black phosphated stainless if I knew more about what stainless makes for a good edge holding quality knife.

Randall's:

Buck Elliott · Post by **Buck Elliott** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:02 pm

My late Ralph Bone Fighter was a close copy of the Randall No.1..

Grizzly Adams · Post by **Grizzly Adams** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:19 pm

Ravenman wrote:@Mescalero
In a knife fight is no place for honor. Win or loose - and stay away from the other knife as far as you can. Distance is the key. Take a knife with the longest blade you can handle well.

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:48 pm

Asking a man with experience is far more important than asking a man, like most of us here, who have little to no exp. on the question of using knives on people.

Find yourself a Muslim, they have plenty of experience at lopping off heads.

Sorry, but I feel better now as after watching Fox News last night on that Muslim who immigrated here who wants to change our culture.

But if you insist, a large knife may be great in battle but in the street, I would prefer to have my Benchmade AFO automatic. http://www.benchmade.com/products/9051

As for a real deal fighting knife, I cannot see how the Case XX USMC could be beat. Plenty of Japs found that out in WW2.

------6

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 5:45 pm

It... depends.

Unplanned (CCW) Self Defense, Planned Self Defense, Planned Wet Work, or Planned Combat?

Each demands a different Blade.

Given a scenario where I am obliged at gunpoint to NOT have a firearm, my first stop after landing at the Airport is a Hardware Store for a Drywall Keyhole Saw:

Strong enough to stab with, viscous enough to slash with, and a huge PITA to stitch up wounds from.

My second stop is at a Grocery Outlet where I can buy a "Good Cook" brand 4" kitchen knife, which has decent balance and costs a pittance.

Both items can be carried almost anywhere, so long as you keep them in their (somewhat modified) packaging and keep the receipt(s) handy.

As for my personal "favorite" "fighting knife"... as long as guns or sticks are not involved, my Gerber Guardian (Original, pre-bolster version) will go to the grave with me. 'Nuff said.

Streetstar · Post by **Streetstar** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 5:54 pm

What is in my opinion, the finest fighting knife conceived --- the Randall 1-8 --- that said, when I was in harm's way and employed by the .mil, I carried much more basic stuff --- A lot of things have to go really bad to have to use your knife, but for the vast majority of troops, they are morale pieces --- ie, who can get theirs the sharpest, who can wrap theirs with paracord most creatively, etc. etc.
I left the heavy, clunky K bar and issue knives in my duffle most of the time , and a little black commercial "survival knife" is what hung upside down on my LBE

Most people I associated with didn't have the cash to equip themselves with Randalls and $150 Cold Steels

In the foreground is a De Leon bowie style knife that is a fine choice for a "boutique" fighter too -- I really like the half guard design more than a full guard and it works great for the knife fighting technique of de-fanging the snake

Cold Steel Laredo Bowie -- sad thing about nice fighting knives like this --- if you can pack this rascal (or a big Randall or that De Leon ) , you could almost certainly pack a sidearm -- This one is a nice commercial piece at a fair price though

The Buck on the left is a Rosewood handled version of their 119 Buck Special ---- not marketed as a fighting knife , but if its all you have, it would certainly be effective ----- while the Gerber boot knife is a last ditch "holdout" type knife

The best knife to use is the one that you have on you -- so the ones I am most likely to have on me are one of these 2 Kershaws -- again, not marketed as fighting knives, and the Tanto blade profile on the first one has some limitations as a fighter, but they have spring assisted openings and can be in your hand faster than it takes to unsheathe and clear leather with a larger knife

Again -- the best knife may have to be the one you have on hand ----

This is a loose collection of knives I used when I was in the military --- the Ka BAr and the Navy survival knives are camp knives much more so than fighters -- they have pretty weak tang designs , but you cant argue they've been used in battle before -- And a couple of commercial camp/fighters that were the type commonly carried too ----

The ultimate last ditch , or holdout type knife would be the push dagger -- this one is a Cold Steel I use a more traditional sheath with -- I don't like Kydex very much --- The push dagger has a lot of limitations in utility, but its really only made to do one thing, and that's to get you out of a jam

shooter · Post by **shooter** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:14 pm

.Dirty-.Thirty wrote:Looking at some Ontario brand too Mescalero... Anybody handle any of their knives?

IMO, for the price they are hard to beat. I have one as my "bug out" or "suvival" knife. Actually I have a couple different brands, but the Ontario is one of them. I also like the Mora brand knives for this purpose. Those are some of the best utility knives I've used. Back to the subject in question; The Ontario's are sturdy, you can get them really sharp with little work. They hold a decent edge too. I've used mine for splitting firewood in camp and abused it pretty bad. I did it on purpose to see how it would hold up.

There are lots better quality knives, but I think I paid around $40 for mine new. For that price I don't really care if it gets lost or beat up, but so far I don't see it getting too beat up so as to not be 100% functional.

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:47 pm

Streetstar,
My! Nice collection! I especially like that first Randall.......class is not the word for that, it's a masterpiece.

I don't know for sure but I heard you can hijack a plane with that one that's marked, "Snap On"

OI,
From years of reading your words, I consider you the man of the board who has the most common sense and intellect. But come on, that flimsy dry wall knife? What you smokin' out there in Wyoming?

A Vietnam vet, who is known for making fine knives in this area made me the following knives. The big one is the one I'd like to have in any kind of a fight. It's the only one he made of that design. He was showing me a mess of knives one time and I told him "I HAVE to have that big knife/machete. It's weighs a pound and a half. I used it for all kinds of rough work and still looks great.

The folding knife is also the only folder he ever made. No brag, but after getting to know him, he told me that he knew how bad I wanted it and offered it , declaring, "I know it's going to a good home." Since I have had it, this knife has quartered and skinned 3 elk. It has never been resharpened. He refused to tell me the type of steel he used saying its "one of a kind, and I ain't making no more, so take it and get outta here." One of the best guys I have ever known.-----6

Old Ironsights · Post by **Old Ironsights** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 8:20 pm

Sixgun wrote:Streetstar,
My! Nice collection! I especially like that first Randall.......class is not the word for that, it's a masterpiece.

I don't know for sure but I heard you can hijack a plane with that one that's marked, "Snap On"

OI,
From years of reading your words, I consider you the man of the board who has the most common sense and intellect. But come on, that flimsy dry wall knife? What you smokin' out there in Wyoming?

Most certainly not my first choice, but a viable choice when flying into Occupied Territory... and not really all that flimsy once you have palyed with it for a bit.

Like I said, my main squeeze is my Old School Loveless Guardian. She & I have been through a lot together.

But "best" is largely situational, and the reason most Gunners I know resort to Knives is because they are on the far side of the TSA and don't have a Safety Deposit Box with a J-Frame inside...

Streetstar · Post by **Streetstar** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 12:59 am

Grizzly Adams wrote:
Ravenman wrote:@Mescalero
In a knife fight is no place for honor. Win or loose - and stay away from the other knife as far as you can. Distance is the key. Take a knife with the longest blade you can handle well.
[url=http://s6.photobucket.com/user/grizzly3674/media/187
6%20Short%20Rifle/IMG_0868_zps08a04a1a.jpg.html][/url]

That knife is a beaut Grizz !

Streetstar · Post by **Streetstar** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 1:16 am

Sixgun wrote:Streetstar,
My! Nice collection! I especially like that first Randall.......class is not the word for that, it's a masterpiece.

I don't know for sure but I heard you can hijack a plane with that one that's marked, "Snap On"

OI,
From years of reading your words, I consider you the man of the board who has the most common sense and intellect. But come on, that flimsy dry wall knife? What you smokin' out there in Wyoming?

A Vietnam vet, who is known for making fine knives in this area made me the following knives. The big one is the one I'd like to have in any kind of a fight. It's the only one he made of that design. He was showing me a mess of knives one time and I told him "I HAVE to have that big knife/machete. It's weighs a pound and a half. I used it for all kinds of rough work and still looks great.

The folding knife is also the only folder he ever made. No brag, but after getting to know him, he told me that he knew how bad I wanted it and offered it , declaring, "I know it's going to a good home." Since I have had it, this knife has quartered and skinned 3 elk. It has never been resharpened. He refused to tell me the type of steel he used saying its "one of a kind, and I ain't making no more, so take it and get outta here." One of the best guys I have ever known.-----6

Thanks --- that Randall was one of my "bucket list" acquisitions --- I lusted after either one of those, or the #18 hollow handle survival knife when I was in the Army -- guess it took me 20 years to get the disposable income to get it ------ problem is, now that I am older and don't consider myself a warrior anymore --- I don't have much use for any of the big knives , except for admiring their workmanship and taking comfort in just having the dang things around (that's the same justification a lot of people have for many gun purchases too ) --
these huge fighting style knives are too big to have much utility in the field (unless it is the knife you are hunting with ) -- and when it comes to taking down a few saplings , I'd rather use a small axe ---- but when it comes to ornamenting ourselves, I guess they are not much different than a barbecue gun

That bolo machete of yours looks interesting though - that looks like a big piece of steel that is a true multi-tasker !

But to Dirty Thirty -- he suggested military designs, ---- for a martial knife collection, I would start out with the M3 Fighting knife -- it looks like a K-BAr, except with a dagger blade instead of a utility blade ----- There were examples cobbled out of the bayonets too, and they are counterfeited that way --- but I'd be happy to have one fashioned out of a bayonet for the right price, if it was down in the period
K - Bar is a no-brainer, although I am not a fan - (I have a couple though) --- after that you can get into things like the 1917 knuckle duster, the USMC bolo , and a Fairbairn - Sykes commando dagger would be a find .

But so many GI's carried regular field and camp knives from home ---- and I was no exception, -- (but mine was a Japanese made survival knife with a small bowie type blade - its only priceless to me , - to the rest of the world it might be worth 40-50 bucks ) -- someone who carried a Randall in combat and has a pic of the knife on his LBE has a small treasure --- I've seen knives with combat provenance going for 3-4x what an equivalent new knife would cost

firefuzz · Post by **firefuzz** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:55 am

Griff wrote:Ricky, that style is a classic Randall #1-7, as is my Blackjack #7

I had one of the Randall's in the Navy... but my gear got picked over when I left that unit... so I bought one of the BlackJack's.

I will tell ya, that the Randall is the knife I was trained to use... and does a fine job... I'll tell ya that story sometime... But you're buying the beer. The Blackjack has a carbon steel blade... which I prefer over stainless on a fighting knife. I'd have a black phosphated stainless if I knew more about what stainless makes for a good edge holding quality knife.

Funny thing Griff, I had a similar story only I was in the Army and gave mine to my best friend when I discharged. Really good friend, but now I wish I had kept the knife.

Think I paid around $80 thru the PX, which was over a quarter of a Spec 4's monthly take home pay at the time.

I've read and been told my several knife makers that most stainless is too brittle, snaps easily, in knife blades over 5" for me to take the chance on them.

The Blackjack's take a very nice cold blue finish, I'll show ya one if I can get this new, cotton-picking camera to work right, it's smarter than I am.

Rob

Pete44ru · Post by **Pete44ru** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 8:33 am

.

I found out long ago, @ a time when discretional cash was rare, that I could collect many times more knives than guns, for the same $$$$ - AND they were almost as satisfying to have !

Of the big knives, although I like the Cold Steel Laredo @ Trailmaster/stag Bowie's, I like the Blackjack Tartan Dirk better, because of it's triangular cross-section blade w/thumbprint on the back - if push came to shove.

http://blackjack.0catch.com/pages/dirk.htm

(The Dirk was issued in two different lengths - I prefer the longer version.)

.

.

MrMurphy · Post by **MrMurphy** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:39 am

The Benchmade AFO, if you can legally get one, is a good blade. I acquired mine while deployed. Rarely use it these days as I have many knives but it's in my 'break glass in case of national meltdown' box of gear.

Ka-Bars are always a good start.
Grayman knives, while not issued, are well represented in the current festivities overseas, as are Striders (which 'are' issued to certain jobs in certain branches, the Strider DB was built for aircrew).

The CRKT M16 series of folders, the mass produced version of Kit Carson's custom ones, aren't normally issued either, but about 80% of people in the Army and Air Force (and presumably the USMC) carry them as they're inexpensive, very tough, and available through the PX system. When I was deployed I think about 300 of our 400 were carrying M16 folders of some type. The others of us had Benchmades or Spydercos (issued or personal) or something else.

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:06 am

MrMurphy wrote:The Benchmade AFO, if you can legally get one, is a good blade.

That's another thing I can't figure out. Here in Pa., its legal to own them but you can't carry them. Make sense?

I'm lucky enough to have a bud who is also a LE dealer and he told me, " I can sell it to you, but its illegal once you walk out this door, but legal again once you get home.."

I know I'm half Italian but is this a reason to be confused?-----------------6

MrMurphy · Post by **MrMurphy** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:36 am

In Texas it was, for many years (decades?) the same way. They were legal for collection purposes only, i.e you could buy one and take it home and leave it there. If you were stopped with one in your pocket, you're in trouble.

The law changed here on Sep. 1, and they are now legal for carry everywhere.

jeepnik · Post by **jeepnik** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:26 am

While I mentioned buying a Randall, I like many couldn't get or afford one while serving.

This is the one I wanted to take overseas (impossible to get).

This is what I took (worked fine, still does).

.Dirty-.Thirty · Post by **.Dirty-.Thirty** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:28 am

Well I have my first "fighting" knife on the way, only the blade has a military look to it, the leather stacked handle is similar to the old Western knives I admire. I got the Ontario Quartermaster.... http://ontarioknife.com/fixed-blades/p3 ... etail.html

MrMurphy · Post by **MrMurphy** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:57 am

The stacked leather handles have been on many a fighting knife in the last century or more.

Hombre · Post by **Hombre** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 2:33 pm

These ones I like very much!

/Stefan
Sweden

Grizzly Adams · Post by **Grizzly Adams** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 2:59 pm

Streetstar wrote:
Grizzly Adams wrote:
Ravenman wrote:@Mescalero
In a knife fight is no place for honor. Win or loose - and stay away from the other knife as far as you can. Distance is the key. Take a knife with the longest blade you can handle well.
[url=http://s6.photobucket.com/user/grizzly3674/media/187
6%20Short%20Rifle/IMG_0868_zps08a04a1a.jpg.html][/url]
That knife is a beaut Grizz !

Thanks, Streetstar. It is based on a Searles Bowie knife. Wicked-sharp devil!

Grizzly Adams · Post by **Grizzly Adams** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 3:01 pm

.Dirty-.Thirty wrote:Well I have my first "fighting" knife on the way, only the blade has a military look to it, the leather stacked handle is similar to the old Western knives I admire. I got the Ontario Quartermaster.... http://ontarioknife.com/fixed-blades/p3 ... etail.html

Excellent choice! Looks like it is based on the Cattaraugus 225Q "Quartermaster."

new pig hunter · Post by **new pig hunter** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 4:30 pm

This would be my favorite fighting knife, the SOG Recon Bowie .... 7" blade, superb steel, great "feel" in the hand, and I like the stacked leather handle.

And some history on the knife design: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SOG_Knife

And here is my Recon Bowie, in a fight to the finish .....

Cheers,

Carl

.Dirty-.Thirty · Post by **.Dirty-.Thirty** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 4:44 pm

Thanks for mentioning the Cattaraugus style Grizz, for me it is the most pleasing style to the eye of the many different types I saw on the auctions... When I treat myself to another I think I will buy my first black bladed model as I have never had any dealings with it. Perhaps another Ontario or a Ka-Bar has my interest in them at the moment....

Streetstar · Post by **Streetstar** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:46 pm

Hombre wrote:[

These ones I like very much!

/Stefan
Sweden

I have not seen one of these ! Man --- if I did, it would be on the shelf now -- LOL --- love the stag handles ---

Dirty Thirty -- I love the new knife you have on the way too --- It looks like a nice one . I have not paid a lot of attention to production knives in years , I had no idea the trick stuff they were putting out (except the pocket knives and tac style folders) --- The blade length on that one is not so big that it would be unwieldy , - although I love to look at my 8" #1 , the De Leon 6" I pictured above actually gets used occasionally

That Cold Steel Military Classic looks like a pretty faithful Randall #1 copy and the SOG that pig hunter showed looks amazing too --- I may have to figure a way to wiggle one of those Cold Steel's in as a birthday gift or something somewhere down the road ------ I have never hesitated to use a Cold Steel hard , no matter where the place of manufacture may be any particular month (I have older Cold Steels from Japan, and newer ones from China and Taiwan

One I didn't mention because its also not anywhere close to being a fighting knife, but is something everyone should have anyway, - is their bushmaster -- that is the ultimate hard use, "throw it in the back and not worry about it until its time to use" type of knife -- I don't have a pic, but its basically a blank of steel formed into a blade with the steel extension wrapped into a tube to form a handle --- the beauty is in its simplicity , and they are cheap enough to buy a few of them -- one for the house, garage, and for each vehicle

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:54 am

I don't know about most of you fellas, but, if I carried a fixed blade around here (except for hunting or fishing) I'd be 'splaining it to a badge pretty darn quick. I have a Cold Steel Voyager, 4" Folder that I keep in my right pocket. But, like Griff said, I really have no desire whatsoever to OJT a knife confrontation...In the event of a First Contact, I hope I have the opportunity to get the LCP out and into action.

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:16 pm

pm sent

wvfarrier · Post by **wvfarrier** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:36 pm

One important thing to remember in a knife fight is that YOU are going to get cut. It's dan near impossible to avoid. When I was in the Army I went to several schools for it and when I was a LEO I taught defensive tactics. A knife in the hands of someone who knows how to use it is a mystical terror. I personally make most of my own but cold steel products are great. As well as Gerber. I have a Gerber ranger knife that is better than my stryder.

Buck Elliott · Post by **Buck Elliott** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 10:43 pm

Yep... If you fight with knives, you WiLL get cut, or stabbed, or both... Guaranteed !!

Large knives work well against foes that lack opposable thumbs, although they are still better than nothing against a knife-wielding opponent.. just not as good as a gun... A knife is always loaded, and is most effective while still in the hand..

A knife is swift, silent and deadly, more easily concealed than a pistol, usually..

Streetstar · Post by **Streetstar** » Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:17 am

Regarding knife fighting ------- give a 12 year old a sharpie , then tell 'em to have at it

This will very crudely tell you how a knife fight will go for you.

There are techniques to be sure, but these take years to master , -- the most practical is the Phillipine method of "de-fanging the snake" --- that is, if you are at arms length, your opponent cant hit your body -- and instead of fatal thrusting strikes, concentrate instead on sweeping gestures across hands, fingers, forearms --- these cripple the ability of the hands to do their dirty work ---
--- as well, the thighs -- if you can reach them , ---well placed cuts here can have predictable results

But again, -- years of training .

HEck , we live in a somewhat free country still ---- the best use for my fighting knife would be to distract my opponent while I draw a .38 and start blasting ------ but again, really, the most effective fighting knives are larger specimens --- I posted a pic of a handful of mine and others have done the same ---- Grizz's knife is a short sword almost ---
In the time it takes to draw a knife with a 7 or 8" blade, I think most of us could draw a pocket 9, or maybe even a 1911 from a belt slide

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:59 am

Streetstar wrote:Regarding knife fighting ------- give a 12 year old a sharpie , then tell 'em to have at it

This will very crudely tell you how a knife fight will go for you.

There are techniques to be sure, but these take years to master , -- the most practical is the Phillipine method of "de-fanging the snake" --- that is, if you are at arms length, your opponent cant hit your body -- and instead of fatal thrusting strikes, concentrate instead on sweeping gestures across hands, fingers, forearms --- these cripple the ability of the hands to do their dirty work ---
--- as well, the thighs -- if you can reach them , ---well placed cuts here can have predictable results

But again, -- years of training .

HEck , we live in a somewhat free country still ---- the best use for my fighting knife would be to distract my opponent while I draw a .38 and start blasting ------ but again, really, the most effective fighting knives are larger specimens --- I posted a pic of a handful of mine and others have done the same ---- Grizz's knife is a short sword almost ---
In the time it takes to draw a knife with a 7 or 8" blade, I think most of us could draw a pocket 9, or maybe even a 1911 from a belt slide

I'm sure I have read about the tests they did with cops, and a knife fighter from 21 feet away....the knife guy won every time

cas · Post by **cas** » Tue Dec 24, 2013 7:59 am

I've always wanted an Ek M4.

I know in reality it would just end up being an expensive letter opener.
For a long time I wanted a SOG Bowie. I bought one and sold it about a year later, it mostly opened letters. That's been a pattern for me as of late. Buy a not cheap knife, keep it a year, then sell it.
I did it with the SOG, sold it and bought Bark River Bravo 1. A year or two later I sold that, and bought another Bark River. At least the Bravo 1 went in the woods a few times.

I still surf Ebay a couple times a year trying to catch a deal on an Ek M4 or on M3 (which would be more legal here. lol)

Maybe it's time to finally sell my Gerber and buy an Ek.