Out of curiosity, does anyone know what finish Uberti uses on these rifles? Is it a lacquer? A poly?

I recall someone stating the general rule of thumb is to drive pins from the left side to the right side. I noticed today that the pin in my rifle is drifted in a bit already so that the pin is sticking out a bit on the right side. If the pin isn't tapered and it doesn't matter, it will be safer for...

I picked up a vice. It tilts on two axis which seemed like a useful feature. Now I just need to figure out what to use to pad the jaws, if I want to use it on firearms.

Steve, The advice is much appreciated! I noticed a comment in another post you made about taking care not to damage the magazine tube hanger's dovetail when punching out the pin (something about making it fit loose?). I assume if the armorer's block is supporting the hanger and not the barrel, there...

I may need to get that impact driver! Since I don't have a vice, if the mag tube cap is stubborn, would it be better to remove the tube with the spring and cap in place and then remove the cap with the tube out of the rifle so I can get a better purchase on the tube? If the tube is retained so it do...

Do you have proper hollow ground screw drivers? My 1873 is nearing 30 years of age (made in '86), and over time the screws have been buggered... usually when I've not had my good driver set with me. I highly recommend Brownell's Magna-Tip© drivers. Find the one that fits and you'll never bugger an...

I refinished mine last year, and yeah, I buggered the screws holding the nose cap on. I eventually applied heat to the screws that held it on and was able to remove them. I replaced them with a hardened set that I think I bought from GunPartsCorp. I didn't stain my stock and forearm when I refinish...

Hey there! I came into a basically brand new Uberti 1873 rifle (20", octagonal barrel, straight grip stock, 45 Colt) for a price I couldn't pass up, it's only flaw being some damage to the lacquer finish on the stock. There are several very wide and long scratches to the lacquer, but not into t...

All, Thanks for the feedback thus far! I agree with the comments about the receiver's finish as right now, it's quite pretty and the small flaws don't matter. My thinking there was more "forward", should the gold not hold up over time (flake off, etc) as I'm unsure how durable the gold wi...

I would use an alcohol-based stain - you will get really good results. Tapadera's is easy and gives good results http://www.tapaderaswinchesters.com/stain.html . Use a traditional oil like Linseed or Tung - it will also give you better results. Alternately, you could do a lacquer finish, which is v...

Gel stain is the only stain that I know of that you can actually control how much color you add. But you have to have the shade correct as peter44ru has pointed out. I have not used it on sun bleached wood but I have used it on sap wood (wood closest to the bark). Walnut along with cherry has a sig...

Nice gun. I have been looking for an affordable collector model for a while. The wood is fairly easy to repair. Not sure what you should do with the metal. Strip it with chemical stripper. Evenly sand it with 150grit paper. Then you may have to apply some stain to get the color even. Don't use anyt...

All, Thanks for the feedback thus far! I agree with the comments about the receiver's finish as right now, it's quite pretty and the small flaws don't matter. My thinking there was more "forward", should the gold not hold up over time (flake off, etc) as I'm unsure how durable the gold wil...

I have a 1966 Winchester 94 Centennial in 30-30. The box and documentation were lost by the original owner and it's got a few cosmetic flaws, so it's not a collectible. I'd like to improve it a bit and use it as a fun (and pretty) shooter. Here are the issues: The receiver has a very light scratch (...