Pat C wrote: ↑Wed Dec 29, 2021 1:25 pm The bottom probably broke through during machining ,as long as there are no burrs ,firing pin moves freely is only concern .

Great thank you! No burrs and no additional rusting around that little hole, and the firing pin moves freely.

Your saying its rusted/eroded on the slot wall? Careful stoning of the wall to make sure extractor can move freely .Mostly cosmetic damage. The 1894 rifle/carbine can be an entire collection because of all the little variations and subtle changes. As some might think its one of my great interests i...

One last question for y'all. When I remove the extractor, the part of the bolt that the extractor goes in is cupped towards the middle where the pin goes in to hold the extractor. Well on my bolt in that cupped area I can see the firing pin. There's an oval right in the center of that cup that looks...

Just a little to what's already been pointed out, from 1894 to 1964 the design is basically same .The first pattern hammer had the tombstone style checkering .After turn of the century standard square border checking all the way to WW2 . After the war the serrated hammer came out but still has the ...

The pre war hammers typically have a square checked patch on the hammer spur. These patterns and borders changed several times over production. The straight serrations all the way across the hammer are later post war version. All this being said, there is always overlap and transition periods. Some...

Regardless of whether the parts interchange, I would keep pre-war parts in a pre-war rifle. It would be glaringly obvious to anyone that it had mixed parts. The relief cuts for the extractor are different from pre-war to pre 64 also. Hard to say, but it sounds like your hammer has a broken safety n...

Hi again everyone. While doing some research online and looking at various parts, I noticed many places sell the Pre-64 or Pre-War used breech bolts for the Winchester 1894, but there seems to be two variations. One has a full curve on the bottom of the back side that the hammer rides against, and t...

Here is a sketch of the original hole for stop screw. If you were to weld it. The screws are easy to find but the tap would have to be special made as its obsolete. The correct size is 11 - 36 (.203) - 36 Depending what will clean up to make threads , the 12 -36 option would work and no welding .Pl...

Pat C wrote: ↑Sat Dec 11, 2021 5:27 pm I think he already has it ,but it drops in with no engagement. It was enlarged.

Yes that's correct.

If you weld it then you'll have to have the 11-36 tap made as it does not exist anymore . Is your screw a reproduction ? Measure its thread o.d, make sure its correct .Should be around .197" If the receiver is brown or grey patina weld may be best . Shouldnt be hard to blend in with rust brown...

Welding would be a last resort,as it will stand out as repaired. The finger lever stop pin screw hole is actually bigger thread than carrier . Finger lever stop pin screw is 11-36 (.198")diameter Carrier screw is 3/16-36 (.187") It looks like he used a mainspring strain screw which is way...

If it's a post '64 screw, I'm not 100% certain it will work. There's a small gap between the bottom of the head of that screw and threads, so cutting it to length might be cutting into what threads there are. But, it may still be enough engagement to work... as that's it's only function. I wonder i...

Somethin's fishy..., or I'm misunderstanding something... the pre '64 mdl 94s used two carrier screws, one from either side. Not sure if, one of those would be long enough to work as a lever pin stop. But, a post '64 carrier screw cut to length might work, just the screw head will be way smaller th...

So I started disassembling and cleaning my very early Winchester 1894, knowing that there have been some modifications to it by my great grandfather. What I just found out was that he or my grandfather drilled a recess in the receiver screw pocket where the finger level pin stop screw goes, and then...

Wow, this forum does not disappoint. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience. My rifle is a pre-64, and the serial number of 146,XXX puts it at 1898. I thought about getting a liner put in but it is rough on the exterior too. The front Dovetail sight cut was done poorly and it has s...

Wow, this forum does not disappoint. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience. My rifle is a pre-64, and the serial number of 146,XXX puts it at 1898. I thought about getting a liner put in but it is rough on the exterior too. The front Dovetail sight cut was done poorly and it has so...

Hi Y'all. I'm new to this community. I am originally a Yooper from Upper Michigan, and now live in NE Wisconsin. I grew up hunting, shooting and fishing daily, and have developed a passion and hobby for firearms. Lately I've started tinkering with minor gunsmithing... mostly just swapping parts and ...