Polish gunsmith in training..tang peeps coming tommorrow,?'s
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Polish gunsmith in training..tang peeps coming tommorrow,?'s
I was able to get my Christmas shopping done and had a little surplus.
So instead of buying a thong for my dog
I went on Midway and picked out Marbles tang peeps for my Henry 22 and
my Rossi SRC 45 big loop.
Stopped by lowes and bought a cheap tap and die set (the only one they stocked).
The sizes of the taps are-
7/8-14
3/8-16
5/16-18
1/4-20
10-32
10-24
8-32
6-32
I'm assuming by looking at them I'll be using the 8-32 I really hope they don't need a size I haven't got.
The most important question is... Can I use one of those nail countersinking punches to dent the tang before I drill so as not to have the bit run off center?
I haven't D&T'd in awhile and never on a firearm but I shouldn't think that this will be beyond me at all.
Of course the Henry is going on the block first
So instead of buying a thong for my dog
I went on Midway and picked out Marbles tang peeps for my Henry 22 and
my Rossi SRC 45 big loop.
Stopped by lowes and bought a cheap tap and die set (the only one they stocked).
The sizes of the taps are-
7/8-14
3/8-16
5/16-18
1/4-20
10-32
10-24
8-32
6-32
I'm assuming by looking at them I'll be using the 8-32 I really hope they don't need a size I haven't got.
The most important question is... Can I use one of those nail countersinking punches to dent the tang before I drill so as not to have the bit run off center?
I haven't D&T'd in awhile and never on a firearm but I shouldn't think that this will be beyond me at all.
Of course the Henry is going on the block first
Jeeps
Semper Fidelis
Pay attention to YOUR Bill of Rights, in this day and age it is all we have.
Semper Fidelis
Pay attention to YOUR Bill of Rights, in this day and age it is all we have.
- marlinman93
- Advanced Levergunner
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- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:40 pm
- Location: Oregon
Depends on the center punch, and the hardness of the tang. think the Henry is soft, so no problem with most punches.
One thing that will make it a much easier, and correct installation is a good drill press. You can do the holes by hand, but a good press and a nice table vise on the drill press will sure make it less apt to get the holes off angle, or off center!
I always do mine onmy milling machine now, but I used to do them on my drill press. I also start with a much smaller pilot bit, then finish wit the correct size bit.
Most tang sights use either a 8-40 or 10-32 tap, but I don't see any reason a 8-32 wont work, if that's what your screws are.-Vall
One thing that will make it a much easier, and correct installation is a good drill press. You can do the holes by hand, but a good press and a nice table vise on the drill press will sure make it less apt to get the holes off angle, or off center!
I always do mine onmy milling machine now, but I used to do them on my drill press. I also start with a much smaller pilot bit, then finish wit the correct size bit.
Most tang sights use either a 8-40 or 10-32 tap, but I don't see any reason a 8-32 wont work, if that's what your screws are.-Vall
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After you center punch it you may want to consider using a spotting drill or counter sink to start the hole. Many times I will not even CP it. I'll + mark it and just use the spotting drill. In a drill press with a cross slide vise you can spot it and if it's off you can make ajustments to correct.
Steve Young aka Nate Kiowa Jones Sass# 6765
Steve's Guns aka "Rossi 92 Specialists"
205 Antler lane
Lampasas, Texas 76550
http://www.stevesgunz.com
Email; steve@stevesgunz.com
Tel: 512-564-1015
Steve's Guns aka "Rossi 92 Specialists"
205 Antler lane
Lampasas, Texas 76550
http://www.stevesgunz.com
Email; steve@stevesgunz.com
Tel: 512-564-1015
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Thanks for the replies Gents
When they come in I'll go see my neighbor, he has a drill press. Good thing you guys kept repeating "drill press" cuz I woulda tried it offhand and ended up mad at myself
Chuck100, I'll keep my fingers crossed that 10-32 screws come with the package.
Seeing as I'll be using the press I'll prolly do what Nate says and X the spot and start a shallow hole with a smaller bit.
I honestly am drooling to get my hands on those sights. While on Parris Island I was tied for "series high shooter" with another private in my platoon with a score of 224 (windy week at the range).
The way I shot an M-16 A2 left alot to be desired, the only way I could get consistent accuracy was to lean the inside of my brow (If you lay your finger on the right side of your nose and run it straight up till it hits your brow) on the side of the rear sight.
While the 5.56 NATO didn't recoil hardly at all, leaning the ridge of my brow against it for a couple days straight left me with the weirdest looking black eye I've ever seen.
So Parris Island is where I fell in love with peep sights but I don't think I could use a receiver sight cuz I would inch my face to close the receiver and I think I know who would win a fight between the hammer and my eye
When they come in I'll go see my neighbor, he has a drill press. Good thing you guys kept repeating "drill press" cuz I woulda tried it offhand and ended up mad at myself
Chuck100, I'll keep my fingers crossed that 10-32 screws come with the package.
Seeing as I'll be using the press I'll prolly do what Nate says and X the spot and start a shallow hole with a smaller bit.
I honestly am drooling to get my hands on those sights. While on Parris Island I was tied for "series high shooter" with another private in my platoon with a score of 224 (windy week at the range).
The way I shot an M-16 A2 left alot to be desired, the only way I could get consistent accuracy was to lean the inside of my brow (If you lay your finger on the right side of your nose and run it straight up till it hits your brow) on the side of the rear sight.
While the 5.56 NATO didn't recoil hardly at all, leaning the ridge of my brow against it for a couple days straight left me with the weirdest looking black eye I've ever seen.
So Parris Island is where I fell in love with peep sights but I don't think I could use a receiver sight cuz I would inch my face to close the receiver and I think I know who would win a fight between the hammer and my eye
Jeeps
Semper Fidelis
Pay attention to YOUR Bill of Rights, in this day and age it is all we have.
Semper Fidelis
Pay attention to YOUR Bill of Rights, in this day and age it is all we have.
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- Advanced Levergunner
- Posts: 2004
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:29 pm
- Location: Deep South Texas
I have drilled and tapped quite a few firearms over the years and here are my thoughts on the subject at hand.
1) I agree a nail set is not the proper tool. A center punch is the proper tool.
2) A set of center drill can be purchased on the cheap and does a great job of spoting the hole, without the chance of the bit bending or walking.
But, I don't use either a center punch or a center drill most of the time for sight work . Here is how I do it.
1) Using a machinest clamp, clap the sight base on the firearm in the place it goes.
2) Cllamp the firearm, with clamped based in a good machinest vise on the drill press table.
3) Select a drill bit that is just a slip fit in the sight screw hole and put it in the drill chuck with the shank down.
4) Position the firearm so the drill shank enters the screw hole without touching, walking or binding.
5) Turn the drill bit around with the cutting tip down and start the drill press.
6) Squirt a little cutting fluid into the screw hole in the sight base and just touch the drill bit to the metal to form a small spot. YOu don't use enough pressure to cause the drill to bend or walk, just a light touch and a spot.
7) Now install the tap drill in the cuck and drill the hole with the mount base still in place. Use lots of fluid and don't lean on the handle. Go dlow and let the tool do the work. I back the drill out a time or two to remove the chips.
Remove the base and tap the hole. Go slow with the tap and use good fluid. I back the tap out a couple of times to clean the chips off. All you have to do is break a tap off in the hole once to learn to take you time and do it right.
9) Screw the sight base down and repeat the steps for the other hole.
Now a couple of tips.
1) Stuff the inside of the receiver under the hole with a paper towel to catch the drill metal debris. It will save you much time in cleaning the junk ouf of the action.
2) If you are taping a blind hole, drip a little candle way in the hole before taping. It will carry the small chips out.
4) A B-Square tap wrench with the floating pilot that fits in the drill chuck is worth it's price. It will put an end to broken taps and crooked holes. I have had mine for 40 years.
5) Don't forget to deburr the hole on the inside of t he receiver.
Sooner or later you will have to shorten a screw to do a proper mounting job and here is the easy, no fail way to do it.
1) Drill and tap a piece of scrap steel for various gun screw sizes.
2) Insert the screw in this gizmo with the number of threads sticking out the backside you want to remove.
3) Touch the backside to the grinder to remove the threads. Keep the screw from turning with a driver or pair of grips.
4) When you back the screw out of the gizmo, it will deburr and clean the screw.
Lots of folks try and take short cuts when drilling and taping, but often the results are hole in the rong place, canted holes, broken taps and the like. Take the time to do it right and you will never have these problems.
Oh yes... A good high speed drill bit will do for most gun work, but sooner or later you will need a carbide bit. You won't drill and tap an O3A3 action unless you spot anneal the place or use a carbide drill bit.
Das all....
1) I agree a nail set is not the proper tool. A center punch is the proper tool.
2) A set of center drill can be purchased on the cheap and does a great job of spoting the hole, without the chance of the bit bending or walking.
But, I don't use either a center punch or a center drill most of the time for sight work . Here is how I do it.
1) Using a machinest clamp, clap the sight base on the firearm in the place it goes.
2) Cllamp the firearm, with clamped based in a good machinest vise on the drill press table.
3) Select a drill bit that is just a slip fit in the sight screw hole and put it in the drill chuck with the shank down.
4) Position the firearm so the drill shank enters the screw hole without touching, walking or binding.
5) Turn the drill bit around with the cutting tip down and start the drill press.
6) Squirt a little cutting fluid into the screw hole in the sight base and just touch the drill bit to the metal to form a small spot. YOu don't use enough pressure to cause the drill to bend or walk, just a light touch and a spot.
7) Now install the tap drill in the cuck and drill the hole with the mount base still in place. Use lots of fluid and don't lean on the handle. Go dlow and let the tool do the work. I back the drill out a time or two to remove the chips.
Remove the base and tap the hole. Go slow with the tap and use good fluid. I back the tap out a couple of times to clean the chips off. All you have to do is break a tap off in the hole once to learn to take you time and do it right.
9) Screw the sight base down and repeat the steps for the other hole.
Now a couple of tips.
1) Stuff the inside of the receiver under the hole with a paper towel to catch the drill metal debris. It will save you much time in cleaning the junk ouf of the action.
2) If you are taping a blind hole, drip a little candle way in the hole before taping. It will carry the small chips out.
4) A B-Square tap wrench with the floating pilot that fits in the drill chuck is worth it's price. It will put an end to broken taps and crooked holes. I have had mine for 40 years.
5) Don't forget to deburr the hole on the inside of t he receiver.
Sooner or later you will have to shorten a screw to do a proper mounting job and here is the easy, no fail way to do it.
1) Drill and tap a piece of scrap steel for various gun screw sizes.
2) Insert the screw in this gizmo with the number of threads sticking out the backside you want to remove.
3) Touch the backside to the grinder to remove the threads. Keep the screw from turning with a driver or pair of grips.
4) When you back the screw out of the gizmo, it will deburr and clean the screw.
Lots of folks try and take short cuts when drilling and taping, but often the results are hole in the rong place, canted holes, broken taps and the like. Take the time to do it right and you will never have these problems.
Oh yes... A good high speed drill bit will do for most gun work, but sooner or later you will need a carbide bit. You won't drill and tap an O3A3 action unless you spot anneal the place or use a carbide drill bit.
Das all....
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- Levergunner 2.0
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- Contact:
Here's the instructions from the Marble's site: http://www.marblearms.com/sights/media/ ... -other.pdf
You'll need--in addition to a center punch--a #21 drill and a 10-32 tap.
You'll need--in addition to a center punch--a #21 drill and a 10-32 tap.